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Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
Some venues are a hit from the second you arrive. Cordelia is one of them for me. Melbourne is full of elevated-casual, Euro-leaning, drinks-forward restaurants, especially in the north, so what exactly set my glutton’s Spidey sense tingling here?
From the team behind beloved Prahran wine bar Don’s, Cordelia has that elusive je ne sais quoi, and as a writer, I’ll do my best to say quoi. Led by head chef and co-owner Josh Norris, formerly of Don’s, the kitchen balances serious technique with a sense of play. The room hums from afternoon sunshine into late-night intimacy, and the drinks list is built for seafood, long lunches and spontaneous second rounds. It is the kind of place that pulls you in easily and keeps you there longer than planned.
The vibe
Propped on the corner of Rathdowne and Kay Street in Carlton, Cordelia is a certified sunshine magnet. In summer, an outdoor seat isn’t just recommended, but essential.
Every time I’ve been, it’s busy in the best possible way. Lively but never cramped, full of that easy conviviality that makes you want to linger. There’s a gentle nudge to settle in rather than cycle through tables, a true spirit of hospitality.
It’s refined, sure, but there’s an undercurrent of mischief to it all, maybe from the relaxed service, the open-door approach to walk-ins, or simply the sheer amount of sun hitting the pavement.
Inside, Cordelia leans into a softened, coastal kind of elegance. Pale, textured walls catch the light upstairs, giving the dining room an airy, relaxed feel that mirrors the energy outside. Downstairs, the tone shifts. A compact basement bar offers something darker and more intimate, a place to slip into for a pre-dinner drink, a nightcap, or a slower, quieter version of the upstairs experience. It feels deliberately dual-paced, which only adds to the venue’s sense of ease.
The food
The menu follows the familiar smalls-mids-bigs format, but the offerings shift constantly with a real emphasis on seasonality. Seafood is a clear through-line, though not the only focus. In fact, one of the best steaks I’ve had in recent memory came from here. The organic T-bone with jus and house mustard, sourced from chef–co-owner Josh Norris’s family farm, Myall Springs, was a genuine standout. Perfectly rendered fat, intensely flavoured meat and a piquant seeded mustard made it unforgettable.
Some dishes, however, feel like anchors amid the change. The two casarecce pastas, one with Moreton Bay bug, bisque and wild garlic, the other alla Nerano, appear to be permanent fixtures. In both, the pasta is wonderfully long and chewy, with sauces that have just enough viscosity to cling to every curve.
There’s a literal freshness to the produce, of course, but also a conceptual one. The constantly shifting menu feels exploratory and willing to play. The octopus and merguez skewer with espelette and saffron aioli arrives on playful seafood-themed skewers and packs a serious flavour punch. The Myall Springs beef tartare with wallaby, beetroot and cashew cream is cloaked in paper-thin beetroot sheets that you momentarily mistake for the wallaby itself.
The marinated Port Lincoln sardines with soured cucumber are lusciously oily and brightened just enough by the tartness of the cucumber. They work beautifully on the Falco milk bun, which has a sugared top and fluffy centre and is ideal for mopping up whatever remains on the plate. The fries, dusted with an addictive seasoning, make an equally worthy, slightly cheekier sauce mop.
Although the menu changes regularly, across my multiple visits, I have yet to be let down.
The drinks
Drinks, sunshine and seafood obviously go hand in hand. The wine list is edited but never wanting, with a great mix of Aussie and international vintners, all leaning fresh, drinkable and seafood-friendly.
Cocktails revolve around three classics: Martini, Manhattan and Negroni, served straight up or however you like them. Then there’s the ‘With Love’ section, which takes those same three and gives them an ever-changing remix.
My friend adored the Chilli Vodka Martini and is yet to emotionally recover from its removal. But like the food, the drinks stay in motion here, and whatever replaces a favourite never feels like a downgrade.
Time Out tip:
The ‘Happy Meal’ runs Wednesday to Friday from 3-5pm, pairing mini cocktails with snackable bites for $20. Fries with a Martini, or wine with shellfish. Choose wisely.
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