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Infamous for originally seating only four patrons, Matsu is an exclusive Japanese fine diner that has since expanded to accommodate 12. Welcome news for those of us who’ve so desperately tried to get a booking over the years.
The menu offers a serene kaiseki experience (a traditional Japanese multi-course meal), where careful pacing, clockwork-like collaboration and a sense of ceremony transport you into a realm of timeless artistry.
Matsu has also just launched a new omakase lunch offering on Saturdays, a more casual way to experience the magic, at just $155 per person.
The vibe
Despite having slightly more capacity, the restaurant is still, of course, a uniquely intimate space – a cosy rectangular cocoon where the chefs are the main act and the preparation of each dish is carried out right in front of you. Yet the atmosphere is far from stifling.
Calming minimalist furnishings and a clean workspace make an ideal backdrop for the kitchen action, and it’s a fascinating format to watch your dinner come to life, intricate step by step.
Every detail matters, from the green, red, and gold embroidered coasters and Le Labo products in the bathroom, to the thoughtful polaroid snap at the end that you get to take home with you.
Wear something tidy and look the part; this is a spot to bookmark for special occasions.
The food
Do not come to Matsu hungry – there’s roughly ten protein-rich courses to get through, rounded out with crisp vegetable tempura, rice and an assortment of soups and palate cleansers, plus a seasonally inspired dessert.
The Edo-style dishes evoke a century of Japanese tradition and the menu changes with the seasons. I was lucky to be among the first to try Matsu’s 2026 autumn menu.
The journey begins with a sakizuke (appetizer) of seared Hokkaido scallops with zesty ponzu gelée and the smoky, savoury condiment tosazu – a delicate dance of freshness, char and acidity. Abalone served next comes with liver cream sauce, pine nuts, sushi rice and caviar – a creamy, rich umami bomb that’s probably among the best things I’ve tasted. Ever.
The mushimono chawanmushi is all silken comfort, its okra paired with funky chunks of Camembert, enriched with a refined dashi; while the Hhassun platter is a fun romp across the textures of sweet baby corn, octopus, sake-cured chestnut, cherry tomato and lotus chip.
Seafood sings in every iteration, from a teapot of paradise prawns, mushrooms and dashi (once you’re done with the meat, you pour the remaining broth into a bowl) to buttery yellowtail from Japan. Sashimi and nigiri is of the highest quality, better yet when you get to see the bite-sized marvels shaped right under your nose.
A blackened mackerel appears during the yakimono course, and in all its deeply savoury, crispy-skinned and fatty goodness, it’s earth-shatteringly delicious.
You can rest in full submission that Matsu’s masters know what they’re doing and it’s an element of the experience that induces utter bliss and relaxation.
The drinks
The star attraction of Matsu’s generous drinks list is a gorgeous sake selection that changes with the seasons to pair with the kaiseki menu. To indulge in the full luxury of the experience, I’d suggest the guided pairing at $95.
Alternatively, you could settle for a chilled Asahi or two. A crisp, dry Japanese lager beautifully complements the delicate tempura, sushi and sashimi courses, and the carbonation helps cleanse the palate between courses. There’s also green tea, European and Australian wine, and highly attentive waitstaff on hand for generous water top-ups.
Time Out tip:
If you feel like taking yourself out on a date somewhere special, don’t be afraid to dine here solo – the entire team at Matsu will make you feel right at home. While couples around you may be enjoying birthdays and anniversaries, Matsu’s front-row show is entertaining enough that you’ll be kept busy without a dining partner.
Let your eyes dance from the flame-searing of a fish right in front of you to the soft pink of a floral arrangement on the wall; a symmetrical grid pattern on the wooden ceiling to a sushi master deftly shaping fresh tuna belly and rice into onigiri; and the succession of ornate artisan-made plateware and crockery that’s presented in each course – all is a feast for the senses.
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