Whether you’ve heard of Coburg’s latest hatted restaurant may depend on how you feel about the rehabilitated Pentridge Prison.
While Olivine Wine Bar, which neighbours the restaurant, has repurposed claustrophobic prison cells into inexplicably cosy velvet-clad nooks, it’s less apparent that North and Common sits in what used to be Pentridge Prison’s mess hall. There are echoes of its brutal history – heritage bluestone walls and the 10-metre-high ceiling remain – but more than anything, the seclusion of the former prison complex tucked away off Sydney Road is what makes the tastefully repurposed North and Common feel most transportive, like you're somewhere far removed from the hubbub of Melbourne instead of in an inner north suburb less than 10km from the city.
The trademark Melbourne architectural flourishes of exposed beams and brick walls are present. Ornate archways and gargantuan light fittings culminate in in a light, bright and airy space that's an immensely beautiful backdrop to an unfolding dining experience.
Assembled by Mark Glenn who has a glittering CV that includes the likes of head chefdom at Cumulus, North and Common’s menu leans heavily on seafood and seasonal vegetables. Apart from locally sourced meat like Paroo kangaroo, Hazeldene’s chicken, O’Connor’s sirloin and Flinders Island lamb which are namedropped throughout the menu, you’re likely to be eating Sydney Rock oysters, Jerusalem artichoke, Corner Inlet calamari and zucchini flowers.
A curious adjunct to an extensive, thoughtfully curated drinks menu is the discovery wine section – described by our waitstaff as weird or unusual wines procured through relationships the restaurant has cultivated with winemakers, ranging from Tolpuddle Winery in Coal River Valley, Tasmania to COS Contrada in Sicily. It’s not cheap – 90ml of any given wine (less than your average glass of wine) in this section can set you back by between $19 and $30. But the grenache blanc blend from Domaine Danjou-Banessy that we try is complex, smooth and well worth the hefty price tag.
To start us off, the fresh Appellation Sydney Rock oysters are enlivened by a sweet blood orange mignonette, while bouncy Cobb Lane sourdough served alongside salt-sprinkled, whipped in-house cultured butter – stamped with an N&C – is faultless.
Thin slivers of raw tuna and broad beans arrive atop a bed of whipped flathead roe. The roe is rich and indulgent, and at times risks overwhelming the delicacy of the tuna.
Arranged on spears of blanched asparagus, the butter-poached corner inlet calamari is an absolute highlight. Akin to thin strands of slippery rice noodles in their texture, the calamari strips sit in a buttery brown emulsion almost reminiscent of a silky curry. Every bite is punctuated by the savoury crunch of crisp shallots and shaved, pan-fried Brussels sprouts, while garnishing the calamari are pickled onions and sprinkles of Aleppo pepper that lend the dish a subtle tart quality.
Moving on to our mains, the zucchini flower risotto is a trifecta of zucchini – crisp zucchini flower leaves garnish the dish, cubed zucchini is interspersed among the grains of arborio, and zucchini is blended in amongst basil for the pesto that blankets the risotto. It’s a stunning dish, the perfect fresh and light main for a summer’s evening.
The spanner crab risoni in a crustacean emulsion is less successful. The salty melange of seafood is overwhelmingly one-note, with the textures of spanner crab and risoni indistinguishable from one another. This dish would’ve benefitted from more acidity and the addition of a crunchy something.
If you have space for dessert, or even if you don’t, the sunflower praline, yoghurt and mango is one of the most astonishingly innovative, deceptively simple and downright tastiest desserts we’ve ever had. Three layers of what appear like chocolate blocks are artfully arranged over one another, but don’t be fooled. A holy trinity of different textures and sensations ensue – the white top layer of yoghurt is bouncy and tart, the middle yellow ochre layer of mango is gelatinous and sweet, and the brown bottom layer of sunflower praline is brittle and crunchy. Eat them individually before availing yourself of a spoonful that combines all three. Astoundingly good.
North and Common is serving up some of the most exciting, inventive food around in a striking setting that neither makes light of its violent history nor glorifies it.
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
