Papelón

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It wasn't just the local Footscray community that lucked out when Reveka Hurtado gave her popular catering company Papelón a permanent home in the neighbourhood. South American expats and travellers craving a comforting taste of home are duly gratified here, while curious appetites from all corners of Melbourne are invited to explore Latin America’s gastronomic diversity beyond tacos and tequila – and there’s a generous bounty to try. 

From its signature pabellón (a whopping platter of shredded beef, rice, beans and sweet fried plantains) and proper cornmeal arepas and empanadas to homey stews and meat specials inspired by traditional recipes, this no-frills diner belongs in everyone’s pocketbook of westside favourites. 

The vibe

Papelón hums cheerfully along the periphery of Footscray Market – sometimes a little sleepy on weekdays, yet much livelier in the evenings and on Saturday nights when live singers and musicians take the floor (check the restaurant’s Instagram for upcoming events; all-you-can-eat arepas night, anyone?).

If you’re solo dining in the daytime, bring a book to read over a coffee and cake – well, a café con leche and a quesillo (a Venezuelan-style flan), to zero in on the sweet details – since it’s breezy and relaxed inside, tucked away from the ruckus of the markets. 

But if you’re rounding up the fam and want to make a night of it, opt for a lively group dinner. Many of Papelón’s dishes are great for sharing, the Latin tunes are a vibe, and kids are always very welcome. 

Colourful flags and woven lanterns decorate the orange-hued space, which currently also features a small retail showcase from Casa Bonita Lifestyle: a Colombian-Aussie brand that crafts handmade ethical luxury products. It’s a reminder that beyond food and drink, Papelón also serves as a vibrant community hub that brings people and cultures together.

The food

Though Papelon’s menu takes inspiration from various parts of South America, most of it skews Venezuelan – a delicious mishmash of Caribbean, European and other global influences. Before moving to Australia, Hurtado ran Venezuelan restaurants in Chile with her family.

Each dish leans into uncomplicated yet pleasing flavours  and pays homage to the ingredients and techniques time-honoured in various parts of Latin America. It all feels like a warm and fuzzy hug on a plate.

For simple Colombian street food at its most decadent, try an arepa ‘e huevo – a deep-fried corn parcel opened and stuffed with a jammy whole egg, then re-fried to achieve the perfect crunch. Plenty of additional arepas and empanadas dominate the menu, filled with an assortment of stewed meat and vegetable fillings, and served alongside a creamy, herby green sauce. Papelón is the place to go large on snacks. 

Of a trio of green plantain flats with assorted toppings – the trilogía de tostones – it’s the fresh queso and orange chipotle mayo sauce that surprisingly takes top gong over the chicken and beef. Its creamy tang effortlessly lifts the profile of the dense, starchy fruit. Simplicity wins out.

An earthy chicken and corn soup offers a singular flavour profile – peppery and earthy, better balanced with a creamy hit of sour cream. With rice and a generous chunk of avocado rounding out the meal, our zippers are feeling the strain but that’s just fine – we’ve already made plans for what we’ll try on future visits. 

The drinks

Beyond coffee, you can get proper Latin American drinks here that aren’t easy to find around Melbourne: Pony Malta (a non-alcoholic malt drink popular in Peru and Colombia), sugarcane lemonade, cocada (coconut milkshake), horchata (sweet and creamy spiced beverage) and passionfruit juice.

Juice made from lulo (a savoury Colombian fruit) is a highlight – tart, refreshing and delightfully tropical-tasting, served mocktail-style with chilli salt on the rim. Also pairing particularly well with the food is the 100 per cent malt Helles lager beer from Club Colombia.

Time Out tip:

Live or work nearby? From Wednesday to Friday, the $25 lunch deal offers excellent value, including a soup, a main, a juice and dessert – all made from scratch. ¡Vámos!  

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