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Melbourne is in a golden era for casual Greek food right now and Taverna – a nifty newcomer from restaurateur Angie Giannakodakis (Epocha, Press Club) – is proof. The breezy Athenian-inspired restaurant opened on the site of George Calombaris’s OG Hellenic Republic to much fanfare, an instant hit with Greek food lovers thanks to its wholesome taverna eats cooked with simplicity and served share-style, and its understated dazzler of a drinks list. Extra gold stars are duly awarded for Taverna’s warm approach to service, inspired by the spirit of ‘philoxenia’ (‘love of strangers’).
The vibe
No need to make sure you’re suited, booted, glammed or gussied up before visiting this relaxed local. I head in for dinner on a Friday night, and the vibe is coolly casual; it’s got the spirit of an easygoing local. What sounds like Greek alt rock music softly complements the dinner hum, and while the restaurant isn’t exactly heaving at the seams (perhaps due to the selection of an earlier booking time), I spy a few couples on date nights and low-key family get-togethers. That’s not to say the restaurant doesn’t carry a sense of occasion – white-painted walls and comfy vintage-chic aesthetics may pay homage to the motherland, but it’s a restaurant that feels Melbourne and very much of-the-moment. Service is warm and personal, like you’re dining within the welcoming walls of a friend’s living room. Settle in, have a drink – you’re part of the family now.
The food
Taverna’s menu is a shining example of why Greek is one of the world’s most internationally loved cuisines – think fresh wholefood ingredients that sing of the sun and soil that nourished them, soulful recipes developed under the wisdom of kitchen matriarchs (a moussaka on the menu in Taverna’s earlier days was inspired by Giannakodakis’s own mother’s dish, for example), and that famously healthy Mediterranean split between carbs, fats and proteins.
The ‘taxithi’ (‘journey’) menu is excellent value for the amount of food you’re served. My friend and I are swiftly brought little bowls of plump, marinated olives; tart house-pickled vegetables and house-baked olive oil bread (like soft and fluffy clouds from heaven); plus a pair of sea-fresh scallops in a rich tarama butter, and one of Taverna’s best-loved specialties: the fava bean dip. There’s a lot of juicy, bread-mopping activity, and plentiful sighs of delight, but it’s the latter we can’t get enough of.
The smooth and creamy blend of fava beans is cleverly balanced out with shallots and its piquant well of capers, and I can’t resist a final lick of the spoon right as the waiter is taking the finished dish away from us (a moment that could have been awkward but is instead an opportunity to laugh, thanks to the gracious waiter who can understandably empathise with my reluctance to let any of it go to waste). If you’d just grazed on the above over a couple of wines, that would be a very solid girl dinner indeed – but fortunately, my friend and I are only just beginning.
Next, we’re digging into ‘patzari’, a kind of Greek beet salad, dressed with verjuice and orange, and fork-battling over rapidly disappearing slices of cured pork fillet dressed prettily with curls of fennel. The star of the show, as is the case with many a Greek meal, is the super moist, slow-cooked lamb shoulder. Taverna’s dry herb-showered showstopper is tender, succulent and utterly perfect with its sweet onion friends. Crunchy fried potatoes and a delicately dressed leafy salad round out the meal.
A dessert of the day is also included in the set menu, and you’ll have just enough room for it. While there’s an a la carte menu you can select items from instead, if you’d like to try something different (goat ragu with hilopites pasta? Cretan oil and lemon-drenched fish of the day?), opt for the set menu on your first visit. It’s such a delicious and diverse assortment of Taverna’s favourites that really gives you a sense of Athenian flavours.
The drinks
The booze menu has all kinds of drinkers covered, whether you’re after a good Greek wine, beer or cider, or a couple of ouzo rounds to settle you in.
The by-the-glass wine list is a near-even split of bubbles, chilled whites, red and dessert wines, with a good mix of local and European producers to choose from. While Greek or Australian wine is the perfect partner for the food (a glass of Margaret River cab sauv cuts through the lamb beautifully), I recommend starting with a cocktail to have some fun with Greek spirits.
My Mastic Beach is an ultra-refreshing blend of mastic, lemon and basil, topped with gazoza (a crisp, citrusy soft drink from Greece). And yes, you absolutely can and should enjoy an amaro with your dessert.
Time Out tip:
Bring a large group and make a night of it! Taverna is best experienced communally, thanks to its airy, generous setting and its share-style dishes you can enjoy with friends. The friendly staff will ensure no stone goes unturned if it’s a special occasion, and I can’t think of a better way to celebrate than with a gorgeous Greek feast.
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