The day I went swimming with sharks, I woke up with a mozzie bite on my eye and was 80 per cent convinced it would lead to sudden death. All that’s to say: I’m not a good judge of risk, so it’s surprising how willingly I jumped off a boat into shark-infested waters.
As a Sydney resident with an obsession with the ocean, I have a relatively healthy caution of the large, sea-dwelling creatures that kill an average of three people a year off the coast of Australia. I’ve been known to refuse to surf if I deem the beach to look “sharky” (call it a sixth sense, if you will), and recently, on a weekend away at a beautiful coastal village on the outskirts of Sydney, I stood for a good five minutes, shaking and silent on the shores of Bundeena Creek as I watched a single fin whip and curve through the water I had been planning on jumping into (unsurprisingly, that morning swim was cancelled). So as a certified shark-fearing wimp, hear it from me: if you’re ever lucky enough to visit Lord Howe Island, please, please, please jump off a boat* and let the local Galapagos sharks cast their spell.
*Only when it’s safe to do so, only if you know how to swim, etc.
First up, I should explain a little about the types of shark with which we were sharing the water. Curious, slow-moving and (crucially) non-human-eating, Galapagos sharks are a gentle breed of reef shark found in tropical and subtropical seas around the world. The Marine Park surrounding Lord Howe – with its balance of deep, open water and vibrant reef systems teeming with life – is the only place in Australia that you’ll find them.
Before we began our tour, Dive Lord Howe co-owner Aaron explained a little about the geological history of Lord Howe Island. Sitting on the site of a now-dormant volcano, the island is surrounded by the southernmost coral reef in the world, with the unique sea floor providing habitats for an incredible range of sea creatures. In 2008, a huge geological mapping project was completed on the ocean surrounding Lord Howe Island by Geoscience Australia, producing an incredibly detailed map of the 465 square kilometres of designated Marine Park surrounding the island.
Aaron and his co-owner bought the business in 2013 and used the map to plan new, super-unique diving tours for marine enthusiasts. After noticing a few spots where curious sharks would follow the boat, they decided to introduce shark tours to the mix, and now their ‘Experience With Galapagos Sharks’ snorkelling tour is one of their most popular offerings.
After a rundown on shark etiquette, you’ll set off on a boat into the aquamarine waters of the Tasman, and, kitted out with wetsuits and snorkels, you’ll spend around two hours in and out of the water. At our first stop, our guide began rattling her bottle of rocks to attract the curious creatures, and six of them emerged from the depths and swam below us as the boat (and the bar we were holding onto) moved slowly south. At each stop, we got up close with at least four sharks – mesmeric, alien-like forms that reminded us all of the mysteries of the universe.
Although they’re generally no threat to humans (they eat fish, squid and the occasional smaller shark, making them key players in maintaining the ocean’s delicate food chain), Galapagos sharks aren’t small – growing up to three metres in length. But despite the fear that’s been baked into my bones, suspended in the water above them, I felt nothing but a surreal, connected sense of awe. The time I spent in the water that day wasn't the only moment during my Lord Howe holiday that I was overcome with the kind of numinous sensation that connects you to yourself and the world you interact with. Watching the sharks move below me, I was shaken out of my body and beautifully fused with the endlessly enchanting magnitude of nature.
You can read our guide to all the best things to do in the magical Lord Howe Island over here.