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A 120-year-old, heritage-listed Rose Bay church that’s been dormant for ten years is now home to Aambra – a restaurant spotlighting the ancient cooking traditions of the Levant, a region in the Eastern Mediterranean that includes Lebanon, Jordan, Cyprus and Egypt (and more). It’s been a project more than three years in the making by owner Cristian Gorgees (also behind Emu Hall Bar & Kitchen), who hopes to showcase lesser-known flavours to Sydneysiders while paying respects to the building’s heritage.
“This property is such an important part of Rose Bay and indeed Sydney’s history, so we wanted to make sure there was something special about every inch of it,” he says.
“It’s always been a place of sanctuary and that’s how we want it to live on, where people can escape reality for a few hours and come together with the people that mean the most to them.”
The space, designed by Gorgees in collaboration with Paul Papadopoulos from DS17, is really something. Seating 140 guests both inside and outside, the dining room features pretty stained-glass windows, soaring 10m-high cathedral ceilings, arched doorways and custom-made marble tables. Outside is the “dining oasis” – an alfresco area with a wraparound timber deck dotted with olive trees. Take a seat there to enjoy a prime sunset view.
Gianluca Lonati, a former chef at Surry Hills’ pastel-pink Nour restaurant, is leading the kitchen at Aambra. The share-style menu features snacks, mezze and large plates from different parts of the Levant, with highlights including house-made molasses flatbreads; whipped feta with melon and mint; macarona laban with spanner crab and Aleppo pepper; lamb tongue skewers with rose harissa and sumac onions; and charred eggplant with buffalo labneh and za’atar.
For dessert, there’s wood-fired kenefe with frozen yoghurt and pistachio, and kaymak-and-date ice-cream with Aambra’s olive oil, plus more.
Sommelier Sasa Savic has created a 130-strong wine cellar, alongside cocktails like the Watermelon Martini, Arak Elderflower Spritz and Jaffa Margarita.
Gorgees adds: “It’s such a welcoming and inviting space, which perfectly aligns with Levantine culture – inviting people into your home to connect over food and tradition.
“We want Aambra to be a place where you can escape the hustle and bustle and be transported somewhere else, not just through the flavours, but through the whole dining experience – from the aromas to the music, down to the lighting and the energy our team brings to the floor.”
Address: 518A Old South Head Rd, Rose Bay NSW 2029
Find out more here.
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