“A Portuguese oasis in Petersham,” is what Jose Silva and wife Basia wanted to create with their corner-eatery Lunas, named after the couple’s daughter. And sitting there one balmy evening in the alfresco courtyard, which overlooks the verdant garden – lush with herbs, citrus, fig and pomegranate trees – while the sun turned from a soft peach to a fiery orange – we’d say they’ve pretty much nailed it.
Silva – who also owns pasty shop Sweet Belem (home to Sydney’s best Portuguese tarts), as well as sustainable fish joint Fich at Petersham, (he’s also the co-owner of Double Bay’s beloved Bibo Wine Bar) – opened Lunas in late 2022. An all-day café, Lunas serves classic breakfasts with Portuguese flavours – think hotcakes with a Portuguese tart custard, cinnamon, raspberries and vanilla ice cream; and chorizo scrambled eggs with onion, sobrasada (cured sausage), chives, coriander, and gordal olives. Even avo toast gets pimped up with romesco sauce, coriander, tomato, almonds and vegan feta.
To make the most of the dreamy weather, Lunas is now open during the evenings for the first time. Come night time, you can expect traditional yet elevated Portuguese fare, inspired by Silva’s heritage, as well as his 12 years spent as head chef at Guillaume Brahimi’s award-winning Opera House restaurant.
Begin with snacks like ‘peixinhos de horta’, fresh green beans deep fried until crisp, salty and moreish; ‘atum cru’, raw bluefin tuna with sofrito, olives and jamon; and pork and beef croquettes with seeded mustard.
For mains, you could share the charred spatchcock with piri-piri sauce and sugarloaf cabbage; and grilled Fremantle octopus with chat potatoes and molho verde. A heirloom salad with pickled onions and herbs plucked from the garden can bring lightness and freshness. For "wow" factor, go for the flaming chorizo.
We’re about to leave when Silva points up the roof and we see a vine that’s slowly starting to grow.
“I want it to be just like it is back home, where vines cover the whole roof, and sunlight streams through, but it just takes time,” he says with a smile.
And with an offering that good? We’re happy to wait.
Oh – and Lunas is BYO only. We say grab a bottle or two of your favourite vino, call up your friends, and settle in for a relaxing and Portuguese-flavoured evening.
