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The first time I had cochinita pibil, I was three Dos Equis deep at a roadside stall after spending the morning diving into the electric-turquoise waters of Tulum’s Playa Paraíso. I remember the spiced, juicy pork, brightened with citrus, and the crunch and zing of the pickled red onions. I practically inhaled it.
The most recent time was at Newcastle’s new Mexican restaurant, Papalote. Here, pork shoulder is marinated in achiote, garlic and orange before being cooked for eight hours in a traditional brick pit oven beneath charcoal. It arrives wrapped in banana leaf – like a hunger-inducing Mayan gift – and crowned with sliced fresh and pickled red onions, with Marydia’s corn tortillas and non-wallflower salsas on the side. It’s a brilliant rendition of one of my favourite Yucatán dishes, and it also disappears quickly.
Anyone who hasn’t visited Newcastle recently is missing out. I could point to the rolling waves, incredible ocean baths and the lack of Big City Rush. But really, you should come here for the food – and make sure Papalote is high on your list.
The vibe
Last November, locals and long-time friends – sommelier-chef couple Stephanie Wells and Michael Portley from Hunter Street’s pasta and vino palace, Humbug, and the charismatic Eduardo Molina from easy-breezy fine diner Flotilla – teamed up to open Papalote. It’s located in an industrial part of the city, on Parry Street in Newcastle West, in the former home of The Edwards. The name comes from the Mexican Spanish word for kite (derived from butterfly) – it's also a mezcal made from agave cupreata grown in high-altitude areas.
Outside, banana trees sway gently in the wind near a handful of tables, but the real fun is inside, which features earthy tones, sun-dappled light and the scent of warming corn tortillas. There are pretty murals by local artist Ruby Laxton, curved natural woven light fixtures and an open kitchen anchored by a charcoal fire. It’s a big space – I imagine it could feel empty when it’s not packed. That’s not today, though. Most tables are filled with happy Novocastrians on their second (or third) Margarita, biting into tostadas, and we’re joining them.
Bonus points go to the eager, well-trained and enthusiastic floor staff. Water glasses are topped up, plates are cleared quickly, and we’re asked if we want another Marg before we’ve thought about it (hell yeah, please and thank you).
The food
You need to order Papalote’s take on cochinita pibil ($49), of course. But there’s plenty more worth getting stuck into. Take the prawn tostada ($14 each), which sees a generous handful of beautifully poached Yamba prawn hunks paired with creamy avo and Kewpie, sweet pickled celery, warmth from pequin pepper and fresh chives on a crisp tostada. It’s a textural and flavour hit.
Corn tortillas come layered with thinly sliced beef tongue ($13), all charred, smoky and tender, with crunchy onion and a coriander-bright salsa. Also great is the perch taco ($12), its beer and masa batter bronzed and shatteringly crunchy, its meat soft, alongside sliced cabbage and punchy chipotle. A side of charred corn ($14) with pops of sweet kernels, nutty peanuts, zesty lime, chilli and cream is a standout side. While a starter of Nelson Bay tuna ($35) with fresh, clean-tasting fish, habanero and pineapple aguachile is nice, it’s perhaps not memorable. Finish with a flan with caramel, tres leches cake or churros with whipped chocolate (all $16) for a muy bien meal.
The drinks
Can you improve on a classic Marg? One sip into Papalote’s Picante ($22) I’m starting to think you can. Nodo Tequilana Blanco is shaken with Kunizakari Mango Liqueur, a hint of habanero and lime juice and finished with a salt-and-coconut-shavings half-moon rim. It tastes as good as putting your out-of-office on. There’s also a classic and Tommy’s too, and a strong selection of other cocktails, including the Friend of the South (pisco, rhubarb, grapefruit, citrus, honey, $22).
Newy’s Grainfed Brewing Company is on the beer line-up, as are brews from Young Henrys (including a collab with Papalote) and Yulli’s, plus Modelo Especial for a taste of Mexico City. Wells’ wine list is a delight – stretching from $55 bottles of Paulazzo sparkling from southern NSW to bottles from Mexico, with tasting notes such as ‘Electric, Zesty + Salty; Bright & Playful; Rounded + Abundant + Pronounced’ to help guide you. Get stuck into the multi-page agave, mezcal and tequila menu and you’ll have fun.
Time Out tip
Newcastle’s annual food and wine fest, Newcastle Food Month, returns in April. There are deals, events and delicious things happening all over the city, so if you’d like to come to Newy – and dine at Papalote – this would be a top time.
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