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Central rarely suffers from a shortage of Italian dining options – but a genuine, easygoing neighbourhood spot serving proper family-style food can still feel surprisingly hard to come by. Enter Ninetta, a new Italian trattoria taking up residence on Wellington Street that promises to bring a slice of nostalgic Italian warmth to the heart of the dining district.
The restaurant is the latest venture co-founded by chef Antimo Maria Merone and Graziano De Gregorio – the duo behind award-winning Italian restaurant Estro – who have teamed up with head chef Marco Xodo and Jia Group. Chef Xodo is a familiar face to discerning local palates, having spent four years steering the kitchen at Testina and earlier claiming two Michelin stars during his seven years at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana in Shanghai. With additional experience at luxury hotel kitchens in Dubai and Riyadh under his belt, he is now turning his attention to an all à la carte menu of 32 comforting, home-style dishes designed for generous sharing.
Named after an affectionate Italian term for an adored family matriarch – the sort whose home is always open and dining table always full – Ninetta is set up as a casual, all-day dining spot. The interiors combine warm, earthy tones with design nods to the 1980s and 90s, complemented by a soundtrack of classic 80s Italian tunes. There’s also an outdoor terrace made for lingering over an early evening drink while watching the street-level action unfold below.
The menu spans 13 antipasti, seven pasta courses, seven mains, and five classic desserts. Starters range from a Campania mozzarella braid with ox heart tomatoes and Taggiasca olives ($228) to a classic Fassone veal tonnato ($218) and a fresh orange carpaccio paired with Spanish anchovies ($138). Fresh homemade pasta remains the main event, with highlights including a rich lasagna terrine with ragù Bolognese ($188); a pappardelle featuring a yellow chicken ragù with chicken heart, gizzard, and comb ($208); and hand-folded tortellini with ham, peas, and cream ($238). Seafood lovers can opt for gnocchetti with Sicilian red prawns ($328) or a sharing-size paccheri cooked with whole Boston lobster ($498).
Larger mains cater to communal feasting, featuring a veal chop cooked in clarified butter and sage ($588), a charcoal-grilled 600g Wagyu rib eye ($988), and local ma yau fish prepared Acqua Pazza style ($528). Those dining solo can tuck into a hanger steak with Italian chimichurri ($338), grilled pork neck skewers ($268), or roasted octopus served with peperonata and Romesco bell pepper sauce ($248). To finish, classic desserts like the house tiramisu with hazelnut and crispy crêpes ($108) or pesca melba with peach, vanilla ice cream, raspberry, and marsala sabayon ($108) will round out the meal nicely.
The drink selection here focuses heavily on Italian aperitivo culture, featuring classic cassis and spritz variations alongside standard cocktails like the Negroni, Garibaldi, and Hugo Spritz, all priced at $88. A comprehensive wine list highlights producers across Italy, offering everyday bottles alongside celebrated names like Sassicaia and Tignanello, with sparkling bottles starting from $450 and red options ranging up to $3,980.
Ninetta is now open on the third floor of M88 on Wellington Street. Dinner is served daily (except Tuesdays) from 6pm to 12am, while lunch service will be available on selected dates throughout July from 12pm to 2.30pm, before launching as a daily lunch offering (closed Tuesdays) starting August 1.
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