Tai tais, those rich ladies who do more shopping and afternoon tea sessions than actual work, are the subject of a new eatery in Central. And thankfully there isn’t much work to do at My Tai Tai, the second of chef Harlan Goldstein’s four new offerings at 8 Lyndhurst Terrace this year, compared to the first of the quartet, Ee De Le. There's certainly improvement here.
The menu is adequately populated with dishes from northeast and central Thailand. We start with chicken satay ($24) – and we’re pleased to find the lightly charred flesh is tender and works well with the rich miso peanut sauce. We then crank up the heat with a hoi lai phad prik phao – stir-fried clams ($138). Although we’re disappointed that one of the spiciest items on the menu merely tickles, we love that the succulent palm-sized clams are not overpowered by the heavy garlic and chilli sauce.
Just as we think this could be one of the best modern Thai restaurants in town, though, our ho mok talay – seafood souffle – ($128) arrives with near raw scallops. The service is attentive but the food takes its time. We have to ask about our ro tee bread ($22) and Panang neua wagyu – wagyu beef curry – ($198) several times. The long wait is worth it, though, as the curry is delicious.
Definitely a winner.