The latest project by Hong Kong socialite Bonnie Gokson, Sevva has garnered a lot of fanfare lately, and with apparent good reason. The space itself is incredible: a 360-degree balcony offers stunning views of the skyscrapers of Central and Admiralty, the harbour, and the Kowloon skyline – perfect for sunset drinks and impressing visiting friends or clients. The furnishings, meanwhile, are straight out of Elle Decor and demand appreciation for their style and easy elegance. If only the food and service matched up to their surroundings.
So often in this town, it seems many of us settle for lush and glitzy settings in lieu of high-quality dishes and decent service. The question must be asked: is dining at the newest, shiniest spot in town suitable compensation for average food and below-par service?
Things got off to a bad start when we asked for tap water, rather than the suggested mineral kind, and were promptly refused. Sure, offer us the still or sparkling varieties – it’s a waiter’s duty to maximise sales – but refusal to serve normal tap water leaves a sour taste in the mouth.
Matters did not improve as we began to peruse the menu: our waiter cautioned us against ordering the oysters, saying they had had a bad batch the previous day, but that he would check if fresher ones had been delivered. They had indeed, so, throwing caution to the wind, we each ordered the selection. More fool us. The oysters themselves were good (five, not the customary half-dozen, to a plate, $360), but the warm Kilpatrick and Rockerfeller toppings overpowered their delicate taste, while the Asian-inspired taro-crusted with saffron and curry sauce was, well, uninspiring.
Mains didn’t fare any better. We ordered a burger – perhaps not the most original choice, but you would expect that for $320 you are going to get a bloody good burger. Sadly, we didn’t. Call me a traditionalist, but a burger should have onions, salad, tomato and relish somewhere in the mix. Add cheese, bacon or even foie gras if you want to go all out, but don’t just give us a patty on mash (you’ll have to request a bun if you want one) – it’s an insult to every burger ever grilled. As for the fish bento box ($380), two of the four selections (deep-fried fish) were the same, along with prawn and mock tofu scallops. When questioned, the waiter said it was strange to get two identical items, and he would check with the chef. He never returned, and by that stage of the lunch, we didn’t care. We wanted the bill, and we wanted out.
Don’t take our experience as blind ravings about over-priced hype, for this place does have huge potential. But it really must try harder. John Baker
25/F, Prince’s Building
10 Chater Road, Central
|Opening hours:||Mon-Thu noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm- 2am, Sun closed|