Forget gilded dragons, book-length menus and stir-fries by numbers, Andrew Wong’s big-hitting but pared-back Pimlico Chinese is a singular affair offering elevated cuisine at everyday prices. Preserved duck egg with marinated tofu, chilli and soy is typical, as is poached razor clam with sea cucumber, vinegar tapioca and wind-dried sausage. Take a trip round China with the spectacular tasting menu or simply park up at the bar-counter and nibble away at your leisure.
NOVEMBER 2019: We’ve added some of our favourite spots in Victoria, including Ole & Steen (a branch of the on-trend Danish bakery), Bleecker (a US burger joint), The Other Naughty Piglet (a chichi wine bar and small plates joint above Andrew Lloyd Webber’s The Other Palace theatre) and Market Hall Victoria (an Aladdin’s cave of enterprising food traders). Heading towards Pimlico, we also like Dragon Inn Club (great for proper Sichuan cooking), Kazan (an opulent Ottoman grill), Lorne (elegant but unfussy modern food) and A Wong (creative Chinese cuisine in a casual space).
Traditionally a wasteland when it comes to decent restaurants (unless you count all the chains), the area around Victoria station has been given a big shot in the arm by the arrival of Market Hall Victoria (and, to a lesser extent, the shiny Nova development). There’s now enough colour and flavour there to satisfy any culinary craving, at any price – whether you’re after a bowl of pasta, an Aussie brunch, some Danish baked goodies or a good old British roast. Moving out towards Pimlico, you’ll find fancy-pants contemporary cooking, opulent Ottoman cuisine and some stonking Chinese venues. Here’s our pick of the best places.