Long before news broke of an opening date, we’d been thirsty for a first look at Apollo Inn. The mysterious cocktail bar is the newest sibling to the glowing jewel in Andrew McConnell’s crown Gimlet at Cavendish House, and is nestled deep within a 1920s Neo Renaissance-style building on the corner of Flinders and Hosier Lanes. As the cool kids exclaim these days: say less!
If you’re familiar with the Trader House team’s mastery of aesthetics, you won’t be fooled by the bar’s unassuming entrance. We’d seen the photographs before and knew it was going to be beautiful inside – and it is. As soon as the enormous, leather-studded doors open, we’re ushered into a quaint corridor with tasteful soft-focus artworks lining the walls. If this dim waiting cocoon wasn’t so classy, the scene in the original Charlie and the Chocolate Factory film where Willy Wonka suddenly seems oversized would come to mind. But we’re not here long, and soon escorted to a space that whisks us breathlessly away to the old-world cocktail bars of 1950s Europe. Now we’re talking.
It’s a Thursday night and the place is heaving with important-looking, finely dressed people, their faces aglow with the golden light of table lamps. We kind of wish it wasn’t so full so we could see all the charming art deco details concealed by the huddle of bodies, but then at places like these, the people-watching quickly becomes part of the appeal. It’s bursting with life and in a CBD cocktail bar on a weeknight, that counts for more than something – even for a space that only seats about 30.
We spy wines by the glass and bottle from Gimlet's impressive cellar and signature cocktails inspired by historic classics. There isn’t a need to agonise for too long over the food menu, which lists a tightly curated roll call of sultry crowd-pleasing snacks. Our first bite is a cooked baby quke, layered with Ortiz anchovies and red pepper. It’s punchy and sharp, but not as in your face as you might expect. It’s also a bit soggier than we’d like it to be, but full of big flavour and addictive at a wallet-friendly $6 each.
We’d heard the toasted baguette with tuna tartare and sobrassada (a raw cured Spanish sausage) was a cult hit already, and after a single bite we joined the fanbase. The brain-vibrating crunch of the tostada in tandem with the spiciness of the spreadable sausage and coolness of the fresh tuna tartare creates a perfect savoury trinity that sets off fireworks on your tongue. Hello umami!
The suave hostess lavishes us with the quality of attention we’d expect at an establishment of such swift renown. When she describes the Picon Bier, I can’t resist. A proper shandy with French lager? I’m in. And Chinotto, too? With bells on. It arrives fizzing in a bottle alongside a chilled glass, posh and complex yet familiar at the same time. The Gimlet is subtle and understated, a little brighter and more complex than the Gimlet you can get at – well, Gimlet. This one’s been aged a while, a key difference.
The Dirty Martini is briney, a little sweet and clean as a whistle. It glides over your tongue fast, making you want to do what? Take another sip, of course. In fact, every cocktail we taste here is pristine, pretty much flawless in both its attention to balance and execution. The way the drinks go down reminds one of diving into a wild and untouched Swiss lake. Crisp is the word that resounds.
Next arrives a plate of glistening beef carpaccio with sharp cheese and vinegar-marinated mushrooms, zingy and alive with textural sensuality. The warm potato focaccia is also a marvel, its light yeastiness in tandem with the fat making us second-guess the presence of cheese. But alas, there is none – it’s just toasty rich potato bread at its finest. A comforting treat.
It’s not surprising at all that this place is packed to the rafters, but will it stand the test of time post-debut glow? With Trader House at the helm, our vote’s in the affirmative. The service is keen but relaxed, with the air of a team who are confident in what they do and in the knowledge it’s being done well.
In any case, we’ll drink the swish experience up, along with its crisp, clean cocktails, as often as we can get a table.
