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Prolific restaurateur Julien Moussi of Only Hospitality (Godby Hotel, Hotel Collingwood) has breathed new life into this suburban pub, pairing a fresh look and updated menu with old-school charm.
The vibe
Situated on a large corner site dating back to the 1800s, the Beehive is a quintessential eastern suburbs pub. The ones on this side of town tend to be larger and more dynamic – all-purpose sorts of spots that can accommodate family dinners, approachably priced weeknight meals and the occasional big night out in one go. Moussi has leaned into that reputation, refreshing the site and reviving its original name, which had been dropped around 15 years ago.
With rolling specials and events throughout the week, it’s clearly designed to be an everyday destination for locals. The menu straddles classic and new-school pub fare, and there’s plenty of room for groups and functions. Service is as friendly and attentive as it needs to be, and unlike many pubs these days, table service extends beyond simply delivering what you ordered via QR code.
The food
The throng of revamped pubs that have emerged over the past few years – slinging nostalgic snacks fancified for a younger generation – proves there’s still a strong appetite for the format. But the offering has to be considered. Simply throwing in some cured fish or scattering a few Latin American ingredients (the flavour of the month for many an upscale pub) isn’t enough to elevate things.
In this case, the Beehive might be better off sticking closer to the classics and ensuring they’re executed well, rather than venturing too far into experimentation. Woodfired octopus with saffron potato and parsley ($23) – a nod to the Peruvian pulpo al olivo – sounds good on paper but arrives as a fairly underwhelming salad, topped with a few sliced tentacles and what look like the same black olives you’d find on a “Mexican” parma.
Speaking of parmas, the Beehive’s is solid, though not particularly memorable – but it’s generously sized at $31.
Gruyère and leek croquettes ($15 for three pieces) are another nod to Spain and its colonial culinary reach, finished with a drizzle of hot honey that reflects the condiment’s recent mainstream rise. They taste good – as most things deep-fried and filled with cheese do – and make a nice drinking snack. They also appear as an accompaniment to the lamb rump with mint pesto and cavolo nero.
While a few snackier items like yellowfin tuna crudo ($23.50) and beef carpaccio ($23) round out the menu, the safest approach here may be to stick with the pub classics.
The drinks
The Bolivian Farmhand ($20) is a questionably named cocktail pairing spiced rum, lime juice, brown sugar syrup, ginger ale and Agwa, a Bolivian herbal liqueur made from coca leaves. It leans a little sweet but offers a fun way to try a spirit that’s not often seen locally.
Most cocktails skew similarly juice and syrup-forward, though the wine and beer lists are more streamlined, with a predominantly local line-up.
Time Out tip:
Visit Monday to Wednesday nights for $25 mains, or drop in between 4pm and 6pm on weeknights for happy hour.
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