Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
For a city that boasts the largest Greek population outside of Greece and Cyprus, Melbourne’s Hellenic dining scene has long felt like it was coasting. Until recently, it was defined by the legacy of first-generation operators – dependable, nostalgic, but not exactly dynamic. That tide has shifted. A new wave of young Greek-Australian restaurateurs is breathing fresh life into the genre. And among the earliest and most quietly influential is Capers.
Run by the second generation of the family behind GRK Greek Kitchen and Bar next door, Capers channels the charm of Yiayia’s house with the energy of a dive bar. An impressive lineup of DJs and community-driven events – many spotlighting Greek artists – help bridge the old world with a new generation. Out back, a bamboo-covered courtyard (a holdover from the venue’s previous incarnation) has become one of the best spots northside for a dance and a drink without the commitment of a full-blown night out.
Inside, the mood shifts. The dimly lit front bar offers cosy nooks for dates and low-key dinners, with a walk-up bar model that keeps things relaxed. While reservations are available, turning up early often secures you a seat.
The menu celebrates home-style Greek dishes with a contemporary, often plant-based, twist. Mains hover around the $25 mark, each one a thoughtful take on classics rarely seen in Melbourne’s inner-city restaurants. Take the spanakorizo, for example – a steaming bowl of spinach and rice that’s far more nuanced than its name suggests. Flecked with dill and shimmering with olive oil, it’s a deeply savoury, soulful dish that just so happens to be vegan.
The moussaka is also dairy-free, swapping bechamel for a vegan version and layering in roasted mushrooms instead of mince. But for those who eat meat, the pastitsio – a Greek interpretation of Italian baked pasta – is a standout. It’s built on long, tubular noodles layered with deeply-spiced pork bolognese and topped with bronzed bechamel. You can smell the warming spices – cinnamon, clove, perhaps a touch of star anise – before it even hits the table. A crown of pickled pepperoncini cuts through the richness.
Drinks include a tight but considered range of Greek beers and wines alongside playful remixes on classic cocktails. The Greek Salad Martini is a clever riff on the dirty martini, spiked with tomato, cucumber and olive brine plus a tangy vinegar shrub. The Kerasi Ripe, served tall with a skewered maraschino cherry, blends Cypriot pomace brandy with coconut rum, Loux sour cherry (a Greek soft drink), lime and dark chocolate bitters. In true Greek fashion, coffee is also available until late.
Capers isn’t trying to be flashy, but the food and drinks punch above their weight. And with its commitment to community – both within and beyond Melbourne’s Greek-Cypriot diaspora – it’s carving out a space that feels genuinely one of a kind.