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Time Out Melbourne never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more here.
Wine bars are a dime a dozen in Melbourne, but Ruzia’s offers something different with an inventive menu built around co-owner and chef Ravi Presser’s Polish-Jewish lineage, paired with a strong vino list.
The vibe
Ruzia’s is homely and romantic, with dim lighting, lace curtains and quaint touches like a platter of walnuts sitting on the bench.
It’s the sort of local wine bar anyone would love to have in their neighbourhood, punching above its weight when it comes to both the drinks list and the food offering. Caulfield North locals should consider themselves lucky to have this on hand.
The only area that I thought could be elevated is the service, which is less attentive than I expected from a diner of this calibre. It can be nice to be left to enjoy the food and drinks, but after our mains arrived, things became a little hands-off, and we needed to catch someone’s attention to order drinks and dessert (which were well worth the wait).
The food
Complimentary popcorn and peanuts hit the table first – a small but thoughtful gesture that sets the tone. A concise menu of shareable plates and snacks follows, drawing on recipes passed down from the restaurant’s namesake, Ruzia, Presser’s grandmother.
Her chicken meatballs ($32) are a signature – tender with a gentle bounce, generously seasoned and bound with a little rice for texture (and, I’d wager, to stretch the meat in the original recipe). Nothing about this version reads as thrift, though. The meatballs come in a rich tomato and mushroom sauce with kasha, or whole buckwheat groats. It’s an underrated grain in Melbourne but a staple across Eastern Europe, and it’s handled well here, imbued with plenty of flavour without losing its quintessential nutty aroma.
While I wish the pierogi were made in-house, I understand the space constraints of a wine bar and that some things must be outsourced. If they’re going to be handed off to anyone, local specialists Pierogi Pierogi (the team behind Eat Pierogi Make Love) are a sensible choice. These are pan-fried and served five to a plate with dill and sour cream – slightly pricey at $5 per dumpling, but heartier than they first appear.
The snacks are just as strong, and I wish we’d had the stomach space to explore more of the menu. A skewer of raw bluefin tuna, olive and pickle ($6 each), though a touch salty for my taste, makes a sharp start. The chicken liverwurst ($8 each) on a thin slice of Baker Bleu ficelle is a highlight, avoiding the metallic edge that can plague liver dishes. Less delicate but equally pleasing is the kranski ($16) – a fat sausage studded with molten cheese, served halved with seeded mustard and a pickled chilli. The best wine bar food, in my view, is unfussy and a little playful, and this fits the bill.
Save room for dessert if you can. Ruzia’s cheesecake – $9 a slice, served with sour cherry compote – is a fitting finish and a final nod to the restaurant’s namesake.
The drinks
Sydney-based wine retailer Drnks curate the wine offering, which is a considered line-up of natural pours from small-scale producers around Australia, including Alles Klar in South Australia and Latta Vino in Victoria. You can see the intention behind the selection, which leans towards funky and saline drops that mirror the fish and ferment-forward flavours of the menu. A handful of cocktails are also available, alongside Polish vodkas and beer.
Time Out tip:
The intimate space can fill quickly, so it’s worth booking a table just in case.
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