If the purpose of a local bar is to reflect its neighbourhood, then Tetto di Carolina obviously got the memo. The rooftop bar component of the Carolina complex on Toorak Road that includes Bar Carolina and Cantina Carolina is smooth, suave, expensively dressed and comfortably luxurious. Tetto’s conservative in its choices, but in a way that’s dependable, not old fashioned.
It’s a good-looking, clean-lined space, understandable given that co-owner Joe Mammone (Il Bacaro, Marameo) has Chris Connell as his go-to architect. The room mostly sticks with upholstery and neutral tones, aside from some flourishes like the ochre-coloured feature wall near the walnut bar, which is overhung by an impressive bespoke light fitting that adds a touch of well-mannered steampunk to proceedings. Then there’s the domed canvas roof, fully retractable in balmy weather, which is going to make Tetto a lot of friends when summer kicks in.
The booze list is not out to impress anybody with its edginess. The four pages of wine are a roll call of familiar names – Krug, Bollinger, Pieropan, Leeuwin Estate, Paringa Estate, Moss Wood – at prices you’d expect to pay in this neck of the woods. There’s also a page of cocktails, which should be your first port of call.
The drinks riff on classics and lean towards the infused and the herbal. The Wall Street, for example, brings together surprisingly delicious sandalwood-infused bourbon with Martini Rubero and maple syrup. Served on the rocks, it’s a drink that teeters on the edge of overkill but rescues itself with its clean sense of purpose. On the other hand, the High Line Highball (MGC gin, chamomile and elderflower cordial, pink grapefruit and tonic) makes all the right highball, thirst-quenching moves and is bound to be a hit on nights when the roof is thrown open.
Tetto’s food menu goes beyond snacking, though there are snacks on the list worth checking out. The fried oyster served with a charred lemon, horseradish dressing and salmon roe makes the compelling argument that it is a good idea to cook oysters sometimes. There’s excellent baccalà mantecato, which the kitchen, headed by Matteo Tine (who’s also responsible for the downstairs food), teams with a truffled pecorino. Those in need of something heftier can avail themselves of crumbed lamb ribs and a wagyu flat iron steak. It’s safe, luxurious, delicious stuff.
There’s live jazz on Sundays, too, a good excuse to check the place out. But with Tetto di Carolina the only excuse you really need is that you’re in the mood for a little bit of pampering, South Yarra-style.