Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
Melbourne's pub landscape is now awash with elevated offerings, harking back to the kitsch of old-school iterations – with cleaner plating and higher price tags. While there's certainly a time and place for ironic white tablecloths and fancy parmas, the Rochey is your spot if you're after a solid, no-frills pub experience.
Since opening in the '70s, the venue has undergone several transformations – it’s now operated by Castle Group, the team behind Arcadia, Green Man’s Arms, Añada, and Brewsmith – yet it’s always stayed true to its roots as a reliable spot for drinks and live music. Not much has changed, and that’s the point.
You’ll still find music upstairs, trivia on Wednesdays and a daily selection of specials. The $22 steaks and $25 Sunday roasts were tempting, but I went for the Monday night parma deal – $25 for a parma and a pot of house beer – because a) it’s great value and b) who else is open on a Monday?
“Had one parma, had ‘em all,” I usually think, but this one stood out with its thick, buttermilk-brined, panko-crusted chicken; high-quality ham; and the unexpected salty bits of what I think was pancetta mixed into the sauce.
The new owners pride themselves on their meat-free options, so the veggie burger was another natural choice. The smoky grilled mock meat patty won’t fool you for beef, but it’s a solid stand-in. And while the burger was a bit plain as served, some mustard and a bit of jalapeno jam swiped from the parma plate made it just right. Plus, my request to sub sweet potato chips for standard was granted – and at no extra charge. Throw some in the burger and you’ve got the perfect bite.
On the flip side, if you opt for a beef or chicken burger, consider upgrading to a ‘dipper’ for an extra $5. Because nothing takes a pub meal to the next level like dunking it in a bowl of gravy or Japanese curry sauce.
I know it’s likely assumed that everyone understands the pub format (order at the bar), but you know what they say about assumptions. Nothing was explained when I was seated for my booking, so a little briefing on how things run would go a long way for non-regulars. That said, the staff were warm and accommodating to my quirks, like when I asked for a Long Island Iced Tea ($14 during happy hour) with Coke Zero instead of the usual.
Was I being a difficult customer? Hopefully, not too much. But the beauty of a pub like the Rochey is that it’s a step back from more rigid dining environments – a place where you can settle in, feel at home and make the experience your own.
What’s a pub menu without sliders? Here they’re made with a sweet bread traditional to Goa and filled with chorizo, prawns or chilli potato. Vegetarians don’t miss out, with soft strips of cabbage flavoured with coconut and translucent curry leaves; and green papaya with chilli gravy. Don’t know where to start? There’s a $55 ‘shut up and feed me’ menu, which can be made vegetarian or vegan on request.
With the new kitchen, the Rochey now walks a fine line between rowdy pub and destination restaurant. It’s still a pub for the people and the dimly lit bar serves your usual range of booze and fancy G and Ts, plus a few Indian-style cocktails to boot – hello rum-spiked mango lassi.
While this corner pub in Fitzroy has food definitely worth going back for, leave grandma home on Saturday night unless she’s square with raucous weekend debriefs bouncing off the bare brick walls. You come here for curry, or to party. Or both, if that’s your idea of the perfect night out.