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At first glance, Fairfield’s Grandview Hotel appears like many of the Victorian-era boozers dotted around Melbourne's neighbourhoods – quietly grand and charming, if a little faded from its centuries-long endurance. Head inside to the front bar, and you'll find all the cosy Aussie pub familiarities: piping hot parmas, frosty cold pints and footy on the big screen.
But tread a little further within the architectural bones of this 1800s relic and you'll discover something modern and more multiculturally inspired: Lebanese bistro, Sama. This exciting venue-within-a-venue is from the El-Fahkri family, who've owned the Grandview since 2000 and have teamed up with hospo heavyweight Eddy Hasbany to bring this new offering to fruition.
Having spent more than a decade running the floor at Melbourne institution Rumi, Hasbany is certainly the man for the job. Leading the kitchen is another former Rumi alum, chef David Gonnella, who's earned bonus stripes at Richmond wine bar Lilac and the former cult fave pizzeria Supermaxi.
At Sama, the charcoal grill is at the heart of the kitchen with Gonnella's menu spotlighting the smoke-driven flavours characteristic of luscious Levantine cuisine. A dinner here could look like creamy hummus loaded with spiced lamb and pine nuts and Aleppo chilli; smoky baba ghanoush with bread and zingy pickles; lamb kafta shish dripping in pomegranate jus; and a harissa-marinated charcoal chicken that's likely destined to become the bistro's cult-fave showstopper, served alongside roasted corn salsa and smoked leek oil.
Though cooking techniques adhere to traditional and homestyle approaches derived from regionally specific recipes, Sama's food feels very much of the Melbourne now; the city continues to crest a marvellous wave of great Middle Eastern food, thanks to exciting young newcomers such as the Rocket Society, Tawooq, Shawarma Al Rayes (purveyor of the world's first pistachio chicken shawarma, apparently) and Tom Sarafian's Zareh – Time Out's Restaurant of the Year for 2026.
Sama, Lebanese for sky, has its own soulful groove going on. A generous four-course banquet option offers great value at $65 (perfect for family dinners), while the space – a warm dining room that favours personal touches like vintage Lebanese stamps and family photos over wall art – lends the restaurant an air of nostalgia.
“Sama is traditional Lebanese at heart, reimagined with love, with a little room for the chef to bring some craziness to the table,” says Hasbany. “We are communicating the beauty of an incredibly diverse and beautiful culture.”
If you're interested in (or are yet to try) good Lebanese wine, Sama has you covered with an exciting list showcasing indigenous varietals and blends from the Bekaa Valley, which is one of the world's oldest winemaking regions. Cocktails weave in motherland-inspired ingredients like cardamom, burnt butter and arak.
Old-timer Fairview patrons needn't despair that their fave watering hole is changing; you can still enjoy the usual experience at the front bar. In other words: come for a pint, stay for the charcoal chicken!
Visit the website to find out more or make a booking.
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