Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
Zareh has been on everyone’s lips since it was first announced back in early 2024, and the hype has only intensified since opening. Four months in, it’s safe to say the fanfare is justified. Chef Tom Sarafian draws on his Armenian and Egyptian roots, his partner Jinane’s Lebanese heritage, and years spent cooking in kitchens across Australia and Europe. It’s all distilled into a tight, thoughtful menu that feels carefully considered from start to finish.
The vibe
With just 40 seats stretched along a long, narrow room, Zareh – named for Sarafian’s grandfather – feels warm and intimate. Much of the seating lines the bar, offering a clear view into the kitchen, where most elements are made from scratch and finished in front of you. The venue is serious yet completely unpretentious, sidestepping the stiffness that can come with a much-anticipated opening.
The food
The offering is limited by design. Sixteen items appear on the A5 menu, some of which also feature on the $95 set. The brevity allows the team to focus on detail, with most dishes prepared to order.
We start with torshi – an assortment of simple, sharp pickles that are dangerously easy to demolish alongside a cocktail. The bastourma toast – open-faced sesame bread spread with herb-laced goat’s cheese, marinated capsicum and cured beef – is another ideal drinking snack, though it would be just as welcome at breakfast.
Sarafian’s much-loved hummus, which he began jarring and selling in 2021, is essential. Here it’s finished with a well of king prawn and spanner crab, and served with pillowy wholemeal bread, still warm from the charcoal oven.
The ghapama – a celebratory Armenian rice dish traditionally baked inside a pumpkin – is cooked whole in the woodfired oven, then disassembled. The rice, its butteriness contrasted by sour dried fruit and pieces of roasted pumpkin, makes a satisfying vegetarian dish in its own right and a lovely base for any of the flame-grilled proteins.
But the real standout is the chicken skewer. Slathered in toum, grilled and served over a punchy bed of herbs and pickled green chilli, it’s the kind of dish that forces you to reconsider the idea that chicken could ever be boring.
We finish with ma’amoul, a shortbread-style stuffed biscuit priced at a wallet-friendly $10. Filled with salty, stretchy cheese rather than the usual date paste, it brings to mind knafeh in a neat, bite-sized package.
The drinks
Cocktails riff on classics, using a mix of local and imported spirits and liqueurs. The Arak Negroni, featuring the anise-flavoured Levantine liqueur alongside elderflower and verjuice, is bold and floral; while the Sippan Slipper, made with pear mistelle (a fortified wine), vermouth and soda, is subtler but well balanced. Wines straddle Australian producers and imports, with Armenian, Georgian and Lebanese pours available by the glass. Sparkling water on tap feels steep at $6 a glass and isn’t listed on the menu, so you’re better off opting for the Persian cola at the same price.
Time Out tip:
Try not to finish the torshi all at once. The pickles make an excellent palate cleanser and drinking snack to keep nibbling on throughout the meal.
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