Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
Tucked in a quiet pocket of South Melbourne, Aegli takes a contemporary approach to Greek cuisine that’s rarely seen in Melbourne. Chef Ioannis (Yianni) Kasidokostas, who previously worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Athens, brings that fine dining finesse to a menu rooted in tradition. The space and food are refined, yet the service has the warmth of a taverna or family home. It’s clear Kasidokostas is deeply committed to his craft – and to sharing it with diners.
The vibe
Once home to fine diner Lume, the venue has great bones that Aegli has retained. The timber-clad, open-plan dining room looks into a spacious kitchen, while skylights bathe the space in natural light. Down the back, a dry-ageing cabinet offers a peek into the process of items like housemade cheese and loukaniko, an aged beef sausage. Service follows the formality of old-school white-tablecloth Greek eateries, but still remains relaxed and personable. Every table seems to receive the same thoughtful attention, and the hospitality feels genuine – never rehearsed. It’s not exactly a place for introverts – each dish arrives with a story about its origins, technique and intention – but that engagement is an essential part of the experience.
The food
The menu reimagines Greek classics in unexpected ways, offering depth and complexity not always apparent at first glance. Presentation often diverges from tradition, but the flavours stay true. Housemade cheese is aged for several months, and the taramasalata is whipped with legume starch for a lighter, almost mousse-like texture – both served with house-baked spelt bread fresh from the oven. Save an extra slice for dunking into the rich, savoury broth of the magiritsa. Traditionally made with lamb offal, this Greek Easter soup is reconceptualised here with mushrooms and truffles from Meteora, a mountainous region in northwestern Greece.
Larger plates might include fall-apart lamb with yoghurt and confit garlic – a deconstructed nod to tzatziki – or manti, delicate dumplings that travelled from Turkey to Greece with the Pontian Greeks. Filled with beef and mutton, and finished with brown butter, kefir, aged cheese and chilli, the dish speaks to the history and regionality that shape Greek cuisine – and it’s executed beautifully. For dessert, don’t pass up the portokalopita, a syrupy slice of crumpled filo topped with housemade anthotiro cheese and olive oil ice cream, surrounded by torched lemon meringue.
The drinks
Greek spirits are front and centre across a small but creative cocktail list, including the Island Smoked Negroni (Corfu vermouth, Greek gin, Greek bitters). The wine list champions Greek producers, too, with a focus on minimal-intervention production and indigenous grape varieties seldom seen outside the country. For something different, the skin-contact malagousia – Greece’s answer to chardonnay – is a fun pour at an approachable $15 a glass.
Time Out tip:
If you can’t decide, opt for the set menu – three generous courses for $70 or four for $90 per person, including your choice of main and the chef’s choice of dessert.
Stay in the loop: sign up for our free Time Out Melbourne newsletter for the best of the city, straight to your inbox.