Anyone who’s ever found themselves ravenous in the heart of Fitzroy North village knows there’s no shortage of tasty options in the area. There are Loafer’s ever-popular buttery breakfast rolls loaded with kale, egg and tempeh (if you can snatch one before they’ve run out), Israeli-style pita wraps from hipster fave Just Falafs, piping-hot pies from Dench, crowd-pleasing brunch dishes from Tin Pot Café and just a five-minute stroll down the street, authentic Japanese curry and brioche toasts from much loved kissaten, Taiyo Sun. Locals are beyond blessed.
But if you let your nose do the choosing, it’s nigh impossible to walk past Citrus. On the daily, aromas of curry leaves, onion and rich cinnamon and cloves waft out of the friendly corner eatery – an inviting preview of the homestyle Sri Lankan buffet available within. When it’s cold out, the windows steam up, and in the hotter months, people who’ve spent a day lazing about nearby Eddy Gardens spill in. It’s not the only all-you-can-eat Sri Lankan offering in Melbourne right now (there’s Maalu Maalu in Brunswick, and a more recent opening, Serendib in Northcote), but it’s one of the first, and for that, we pay our respects.
The premise is clear. Cough up $20 and you’ll get to fill your plate as high as you like from the ten-plus dishes on show. An extra $5 gives you bottomless access, meaning you can go back for as much as your belly will allow. Drinks and desserts cost extra, a fair ask. On my visit, I start with an authentic mango lassi, which arrives in an old-fashioned milkshake jar with a striped straw. It’s creamy and refreshing, made from real fruit, and a little tart from the yoghurt just like it’s supposed to be. Though I’m seated by a window looking out into the hubbub of Saint George’s Road, I can’t help but feel that I’ve been transported to the tropics.
The staff are warm and welcoming – Citrus is a true family-owned joint with a neighbourly approach to service. I’ve dipped in during the quieter lull of a midweek afternoon to avoid the evening throngs eager for a big feed at a steal. Today it feels luxurious to get the full buffet almost to myself, without having to queue or dodge the pappadam hogs. Though the curries on offer aren’t as rich and spicy-hot as what you’d find in Sri Lanka (Citrus wishes to cater to more sensitive Western palates), the multi-tiered condiments station is where you can go wild.
After selecting my dishes, I ladle onto my plate little spoonfuls of the coconut sambal, the tongue-puckering sour lime pickle, the pineapple chutney and the chilli paste for extra heat. A fab flavourful feast now awaits. The plate is a rainbow of colours and flavours, and I’m careful to keep each stew separated lest it all run together – it would be a delicious multi-sauced mess, sure, but I want to taste the distinctions across each dish. The yellow dahl has a ‘just right’ texture, soupy and chunky with lentils, with an earthy, peppery character. Curried potatoes come dotted with black cumin seeds, sweet onion strips and red chilli.
The devilled fish is a highlight and one of the most popular dishes at Citrus. It’s a nippy and moist melange of battered fish stir-fried with capsicum and onion, glazed in a bright orange sweet chilli sauce. The lamb curry is packed with the warming heat of spices like cinnamon and cardamom, while the gamey goat is earthier and more fiery on the tongue. Both meats have been tenderly slow-cooked in their respective curries, and the characteristic Sri Lankan flavours of coconut and curry leaves are ubiquitous across everything on my plate.
Vegans are well-looked after, too; there’s a creamy cashew curry, curried cabbage, the aforementioned dahl, plus more to tick the plant-based box. You can wash it all down with an ice-cold imported beer if you like, but in the middle of the day my mango lassi is just perfect.
Cheap and cheerful, Citrus doesn’t pretend to be anything it’s not. It’s a buffet-style meal at a set price, with usually the same assortment of dishes available on any given day. But with service this caring, prices this wallet-friendly and flavours this varied and fun, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better value feed in the area. Pop in for a quick solo lunch or round up the gang for a fuss-free dinner catch-up on the weekend. Whether you’re a local or just passing through, Citrus will make you feel like family and you certainly won’t walk away hungry.
