Marmelo

Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.

Marmelo (Portuguese for quince) makes a strong case for the culinary traditions of Portugal, which are not widely represented in Melbourne. From respected restaurateurs Ross and Sunny Lusted, it draws on regional flavours and techniques, with a menu that moves beyond the usual shorthand to reveal a cuisine of real range and nuance.

The vibe

Located on the ground floor of the newish Hyde Melbourne Place, the sprawling venue is warm and lustrous, from the industrial Crittall-style windows to the high ceilings fitted with custom light fixtures. Seating ranges from banquette-style configurations to chef’s table spots overlooking the open kitchen. Service strikes a confident balance between warmth and formality, with staff clearly well trained and tenured – something of a rarity in hotel restaurants right now.

The food

For a relatively small country, Portugal’s culinary traditions are vast, and that breadth is reflected across the menu. The bar offers an abridged version of the dining room selection, spanning one-bite snacks (akin to Spanish pintxos), small plates and more substantial dishes. In the dining room, the offering expands further, available as a set menu or à la carte.

There’s particular pleasure in the smaller bites. Pastéis de nata – perhaps Melbourne’s most familiar Portuguese export after roast chicken – are given a sweet-savoury spin, topped with spanner crab and celeriac. It sounds wacky, but it works. A garfish skewer dressed with coriander, apple and a sharp vinho verde vinegar shows how well the delicate white fish holds up raw.

Larger dishes show the same level of thoughtfulness. Sitting at the chef’s table, with a full view of the kitchen’s precise choreography, makes it easier to appreciate the layers behind each plate. Black-eyed peas, for instance, reveal a hidden spoonful of goat’s milk yoghurt, lending a creamy finish to the otherwise hearty legume. Sweetbreads undergo a careful, multi-step process, pan-fried yet still tender and slightly gelatinous, then piled onto peas, asparagus and broad beans (I wished for a little more of the latter). It’s all topped with thin strips of lamb tongue and a deep-fried egg, and finished with a savoury gravy.

It may not be traditional Portuguese cooking in a strict sense, but the flavour profile – salty, creamy, hearty – captures the spirit of the cuisine.

The drinks

The wine list is extensive, with plenty of lesser-seen Portuguese pours, including vinho verde – a young style known for its light, dry character. Port is also given due attention, with options suited to both during and after the meal. Non-alcoholic choices are equally considered, with highlights like Copenhagen Sparkling Tea, a dry, effervescent drink developed by a Michelin-starred sommelier.

Time Out tip:

The chef’s table doesn’t require committing to a set menu, making it a great option for solo diners or date nights with a front-row view of the kitchen.