Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
Taking over the former Old Raffles Place site, Mary’s is an all-day African eatery with the makings of a new neighbourhood fixture. By day it’s an easygoing café; come evening, it shifts into share plates and snacks – all threaded with the flavours and ingredients of Nigeria.
The vibe
With big windows, a corner location and warm orange interiors, Mary’s is bright and full of energy. It’s the sibling venue to Sam’s in St Kilda, drawing on owner Mary Akindele’s café know-how while weaving in elements of her Nigerian heritage. The front of the venue offers a grab-and-go case of pastries, while the back looks into the open kitchen for a peek at the action.
The food
Rather than a strictly Nigerian menu, Mary’s leans on familiar Melbourne formats – brunch by day, wine bar energy by night – to introduce diners to these bold flavours. Brunch offers familiar favourites with subtle twists: chilli scramble lifted with ata din din (a spicy Nigerian relish); corn fritters that nod to akara, the black-eyed pea cake; and a Nigerian spin on beans on toast.
The hero of the lunch menu is jollof rice, a West African staple. Many countries have their rendition, but here it’s prepared in a classic Nigerian style with basmati rice that’s fried with a fragrant mix of chilli, capsicum, tomato and onion until crisp and dry. (Those crunchy, pan-stuck bits are the best part.) You can order it solo, though add-ons of herb salad, sweet plantains or chicken are encouraged. I opt for the chicken – grilled until juicy and smoky, mild in flavour, and just right against the deeply seasoned rice.
The folded eggs are described as a sandwich on challah, but arrive open-faced on toast. I’d hoped for the ease of a handheld bite, but the toast still does its job as a base for soft eggs, cheese, yaji mayo (flavoured with a peanut-based spice rub) and ayemase, a green capsicum and chilli sauce. You can get eggs on toast anywhere, but the ayemase is what makes this one memorable. They could bottle it and I’d buy it.
The drinks
Coffee is handled with care, as expected. For something different, there’s malt soda – a barley-based soft drink sitting somewhere between root beer and Guinness – plus hibiscus-mint iced tea that can be spiked on request.
Time Out tip:
Don’t wait ‘til noon to get your jollof fix – the lunch menu runs all day.
Stay in the loop: sign up for our free Time Out Melbourne newsletter for the best of the city, straight to your inbox.