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Review
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
Konbinis – the convenience stores on virtually every corner in Japan – are just as much a cultural immersion as the country's shrines and cherry blossoms. This Cremorne lunch spot draws on that format, serving elevated interpretations of convenience store classics (onigiri, sandos, fried chicken) alongside a dine-in menu that brings genuine excitement back to the midday break.
Compared to Silicon Valley, the tech and start-up hub of Cremorne can feel a little behind. But being able to claim Suupaa in the neighbourhood lifts things a few notches. The design leans into a sleek, romanticised vision of Tokyo futurism, with digital menu boards scrolling overhead and matcha on tap. One corner is dedicated to retail, with shelves of grab-and-go fare, an impressive alcohol selection, and homewares and magazines – some local, others imported from Japan.
Ordering is ideally done via QR code, though table service is available. The open kitchen offers a clear view of the action, with a few seats lining the service counter if you want to watch your lunch come together.
A small konbini section sells grab-and-go sandos and onigiri that can also be eaten in-house, though unclear messaging around whether to pay at the retail counter or after dining makes the self-service element slightly awkward. Sitting down reveals a broader menu of snacks, sandwiches and bowls that dispel any AI slop associations.
Start with a steamed bun fresh from the warmer. The dough is soft but structured in a wholemeal kind of way. Inside is an exceptional chashu pork, slow-cooked rather than the spiralled, porchetta-esque slices typically perched atop ramen. This version leans brisket-like, tender and saucy, needing none of the condiments offered alongside. A vegetarian alternative with mushrooms and wombok is also available. For smaller bites, the suupaachiki – Suupaa’s take on Family Mart-style fried chicken – is essential.
If you’re chasing a hangover cure disguised as lunch, the fried egg sando is hard to beat. A slab of steamed egg is panko-crumbed and fried, mimicking a thick-cut tofu steak but with far more flavour. It’s layered between buttery, toasted shokupan with housemade curry-spiced ketchup, rustic black garlic relish and molten American cheese – hitting every sweet, savoury and smoky note.
For something lighter, there’s tuna and avocado donburi or shoyu ramen topped with the more familiar style of chashu. Ideally, visit with a work spouse so you can order broadly and share.
As mentioned, matcha. On. Tap. Served straight, with a swirl of passionfruit and grapefruit curd or as a Milo float. It’s a touch weaker than whisked-to-order versions, but the flavour still carries. There’s also banana cold brew on tap, plus filter coffee and tea for traditionalists. A tight list of Japanese-inspired cocktails, local wines and imported beer, sake and whisky rounds things out.
Plan ahead – Suupaa is only open 11am to 3pm – though keep an eye out for occasional takeovers when hours stretch into the evening.
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