Our café of the year is 12 parsecs ahead of the competition. House blend espresso is earthy and rich, while filter coffee is light and bright, not overdoing it on the bitterness or acidity. There’s none of the snobbery that infects some inner-city cafés here, and the soy decaf lattes are all served with a smile inside the light-filled room occupying the corner of a big modern building. Don’t let the moulded concrete and steel fool you – there’s real fun to be had here, and it starts with breakfast. Chocolate-chip pancakes get added protein (which makes them healthy, right?), and bolognese sees long strands of just-warmed zucchini noodles and vegan meatballs tossed with a sweet and spicy sugo. For something with zero animal products, it’s incredibly satisfying. Miso eggs are an umami-rich scramble topped with sweet seaweed salad and charred corn. Milk bread soldiers complete this OTT but entertaining take on eggs. You can also get a side of Kentucky fried halloumi with barbecue dipping sauce. Next time you’re planning a mission at the Camberwell Market, set a course for this star of Melbourne’s breakfast scene first.