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Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
If you follow the line of cool kids down the busy Brunswick East end of Lygon Street, chances are they’ll lead you straight to Times New Roman. The sister venue of Fitzroy North’s Good Times – aka the northside’s favourite purveyor of cheap pasta and late-night feasting – this newish joint has quickly built up a cult following of its own, thanks in no small part to bowls of the good stuff being available from just $6.66 (yes, really!).
With owners Chelsea Davis and Jarrod Agatanovic (who met at Good Times) at the helm, Times New Roman is serving up affordable Italian that would make Nonna proud – with a side of Cheezels, of course.
The vibe
With a 5pm booking locked in (in my defence, I was heading to see Wuthering Heights at 7.30pm – but also, early dinners for the win!), I wasn’t sure the vibes would be pumping upon arrival. But within half an hour of sitting down in a two-seater booth, this charming spot has filled up entirely with a jovial mix of patrons spanning couples on date nights, friend groups and gals fuelling up before a night on the town.
I notice that the decor is immediately more elevated than the casual, hodge-podge charm of Good Times. There’s dark wood panelling on the walls, a mix of warm sconce lights (some with cute little cherub figurines) and dripping candles, and doily-like placemats. The most striking feature is the draped white curtain that runs down the middle of the main dining room, creating a sense of fun, theatrical whimsy I can absolutely get behind.
Staff are friendly and more than happy to offer up some advice when prompted (like yes, you absolutely should order the cashew whip cucumbers), and while the food comes out quickly, there’s no feeling of being rushed.
The food
The menu is simple and straightforward: tin fish, snacks, salad, pasta and dessert. If little containers of slippery, briny delights have you salivating, the options are impressive: anchovies, mackerel fillets, sardines, trout in caper sauce and more.
That’s not really my jam, though, so it’s straight to the snacks for me. My friend and I opt for the herb and garlic focaccia ($6), which is warm, fluffy and lightly salted – yum. The aforementioned cucumbers ($6) arrive halved like little boats ferrying a generous dollop of the creamy-but-oh-so-light cashew whip. There’s a nice little kick of heat to balance everything out, and the cucumbers themselves are crisp and fresh to bite into. A bowl of pickled veggies ($6) – a medley of carrots, cauli, gherkins, etc – are tangy and salty in the most lip-smackingly good way.
And yes, you really can get Cheezels in full or half box servings ($6/$3). Because why not?
But really, it’s all about the pasta – and I’m nothing if not a traditionalist when it comes to my sauce. I go for the bolognese rigatoni ($21) which is rich with a touch of sweetness. My friend orders the classic Napolitana ($14) with added sausage (+$6), and it’s doused in parmesan and a herb chilli oil. This is hearty, homey Italian fare that feels like proper comfort food – and the generous portions reflect this. It feels almost illegal to be so well fed and pay so little. But for anyone who doesn’t want to enter a pasta coma, half bowls are available from $6.66, and there are vegan and gluten-free options, too.
If I had any room left I’d finish with the choc chip cookie tiramisu, but I’m fully carb loaded by this point – and besides, you always need a reason to return, right?
The drinks
Is there a better bargain bev in Melbourne right now than Times New Roman’s $6 punch? I’d wager no. With two versions to choose from – the peach rosso or ginger bianco – it’s a bright and refreshing way to whet your whistle before diving deeper into the (unsurprisingly) affordable drinks menu.
The all-Australian vino list boasts a solid mix of by-the-glass options that don’t creep over the $15 mark (the $10 chilled red on tap is an excellent tipple), while on the beer front you can grab a 3 Ravens lager, Peroni Red or Heaps Normal. The cocktail list has all your faves – think Spritzes (duh), Martinis, Margaritas and a Negroni – and I love the inclusion of a Kalimotxo, a Spanish drink that combines red wine with Coke. My friend orders the Sour Peach Heart and confirms it’s a zesty blend of vodka, peach liqueur and lemon without being too sickly sweet.
Other non-alc options include a housemade blueberry cola, a selection of soft drinks and a Shirley Temple mocktail.
Time Out tip:
Make a booking as early as possible – especially if you’re keen to dine on the weekend. As someone who has tried (and failed) on multiple occasions to walk-in on a Saturday evening, I can tell you that Times New Roman is booked and busy. And trust me, once you get a whiff of that pasta, you will not want to be turned away.
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