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Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
This predominantly takeaway eatery plays on two tried-and-true formats – the classic Aussie chook shop and the gai yang (charcoal chicken) stalls that line the streets of Bangkok – for a take on poultry that’s anything but boring.
The vibe
In a way, Yang Thai feels like Melbourne’s answer to The Bear – the restaurant from the eponymous show – minus the family drama. A simple, nostalgic format refreshed into something a little more cheffy, without losing its soul. It’s pricier than your average suburban chicken shop, perhaps, but still approachable – and good enough to pull regulars from across the city.
The space packs personality, from a hand-painted mural by local artist Nicholas Currie to a wall lined with CDs and vintage Thai cookbooks. Indoor seating is limited, but there’s an open-air deck out front and the St Kilda Botanical Gardens is just a few blocks away, making it perfect for a picnic.
The food
If you grew up frequenting your local chook shop, the format is familiar: choose a quarter, half or whole bird and add your sides, or opt for a combo. The difference is in the details.
Despite the compact kitchen, there’s clear craft behind the streamlined menu. Inspired by Bangkok, where chef Narit Kimsat grew up, the chicken is marinated in a black pepper and turmeric sauce, then grilled over charcoal, yielding meat with no trace of dryness. It’s a touch greasy and best eaten off the bone, so prepare to get messy.
You can keep things classic with hot chips, or go the full set with sticky rice and som tum pounded to order in a mortar and pestle. A coriander-and-chilli sauce cuts through the richness, and can be accompanied by extras like papaya hot sauce or tamarind ketchup (excellent with the chips).
Not to harp on comparisons, but like The Bear, the team has a dedicated pastry chef handling the sweet offerings. Staples include pandan chiffon and Thai tea flan, alongside rotating specials. The mud cake skews sweeter than I’d usually go for, with fudge icing and salted caramel evoking childhood memories of butterscotch pudding cups. If you have a soft spot for a Coles mud cake, you’ll probably love it.
The drinks
Beverages aren’t the main event here, but there’s a solid range of mostly local options including maté from Mateo (a South American sparkling drink) and sodas from Cielo and Kirk’s.
Time Out tip:
Go on a warm day and take your haul to the park or the beach.
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