If showboating is more your style (hey, no judgment), book a booth here. This French restaurant in the heart of the party-hard Meatpacking District prides itself on raucous music, discotheque light shows and free-flowing champagne. The atmosphere is like a stereotype of the neighborhood’s clubs but enjoyed at midafternoon. (That means bottles of bubbly lit with sparklers and enormous pitchers of spiked punch for every over-the-top group gathering.) With drinks like the Booty Call (tequila, jalapeño, watermelon) and the Rich & Famous (vodka, cucumber, Veuve Clicquot), dancing on tabletops is expected. If you feel extra indulgent, opt for one of the $215 martinis made with Nolet’s Reserve gin and Beluga vodka. And the brunch entrées are every bit as exorbitant, including the two-foot-long lobster rolls ($78), 48-ounce porterhouse steaks (market price) and the Insane Decadanse platter ($98), loaded with assorted doughnuts, waffles, pancakes, Nutella, jams and marmalade.