Clover Hill got its second start in February after an unlucky beginning in December of 2019. Its return roared, earning five stars in these pages, plus Michelin recognition overall and for its executive chef/co-owner Charlie Mitchell, who was named the guide’s young chef of the year in October. Its tasting menu changes seasonally, and I was initially enticed by its aguachile with Kombu-cured scallops, crimini mushroom and truffle-stuffed fluke and chicken lightly accessorized with foie gras and lobster in an intimate, cinematically-brownstone Brooklyn space.
We all love to theme—literally at high-concept spots crafted after certain films, cats, dolls, devils, or sex, and as an organizing device: Dives. Speakeasy-style bars. Romantic this or that.
This year’s PR-pushed categories were largely “neighborhood” destinations, “love letters” to something or other, or the last of 2021’s “dinner party” conceits that weren’t.
The last 12 months’ most pronounced real restaurant trend, however, was the abundance of “pretty good!” places. Places that weren’t bad, but that you maybe don’t need to go back to any time soon. That makes New York City’s best new restaurants of 2022 loom even larger. Some do hit those proposed notes, some are great in other ways and each made meaningful contributions to our local dining landscape both in this moment, and with the potential to endure into the next.