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Review
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Does The Dry Dock in Balmain serve up Sydney’s best scotch egg? I haven’t tried them all, but I’d put my money on it. It’s fried until golden and crisp on the outside, with a savoury, juicy, well-seasoned pork filling and a gooey yolk. Sauce piquante brings sweetness and tang, balancing the richness and making it the perfect bar snack – even better with an on-point Bloody Mary after a big night out.
But The Dry Dock does more than excellent British snacks. I’d also say Balmain’s historic boozer is one of Sydney’s finest pubs. Considering how packed it is with locals on a Sunday evening, I’m clearly not the only one who thinks so.
Established in 1857, the heritage-listed Dry Dock is the oldest licensed pub in Balmain. In the mid-1800s, it was frequented by Mort’s Dock workers – Australia’s first ‘dry dock’ – in search of a cold ale.
In November 2023, after a year-long renovation, the venue was reopened under new ownership by seasoned hospitality professional James Ingram (ex-Merivale, Rockpool, Solotel, Etymon) and Balmain local Mike Everett, with the main goal of creating a haven for locals.
It’s a beautiful, multifaceted pub, designed by interior architect Bianca Isgro – the kind I wish was around the corner from me. There’s alfresco seating ideal for sun-dappled spritzes and oysters, and a sports area to cheer on the Swans. Step inside and you’ll see ‘The Public Bar’ – a wrap-around bar with burgundy leather seats, 19th-century sandstone walls and 16 pours on tap. ‘The Lounge Bar’, where I’m sitting tonight, is cosy and inviting, brimming with English-style charm. A classic Chesterfield and wood-burning fireplace add character, while the space hums with the warmth of families and friends.
If you keep walking and turn right, you’ll find ‘The Dining Room’, a stunning high-ceiling bistro with a black-and-white chequered floor and a back glass wall overlooking a lush garden, making you feel like you’ve walked into a greenhouse owned by your rich, classy aunt. Head chef Ben Sitton, formerly of Rockpool, Uccello and Felix, leads the open kitchen, accessorised with a crustacean-laced ice bar and a fiery Josper charcoal oven, with service led by personable restaurant manager Benjamin Manzano (ex-Pilu and Sokyo).
Sure, you’ll find nuts ($9) and olives ($12), but this isn’t your run-of-the-mill pub. The former is house-roasted with spices, and the olives, sourced from South Australia, are marinated in citrus and served warm. Stop there, and you’ll be missing out: Sitton’s European-leaning, grown-up menu is delicious. Take the duck liver parfait en croute ($9), garnished with cornichon and chives, or a salt cod croquette ($8) with tarragon-spiked mayo. And, of course, the must-order scotch egg ($18).
For something more substantial, there are fresh pastas, including a ribbon-like mafaldine ($24) slicked with a buttery, garlicky sauce, with a chilli kick and the sweet, briny flavour of soft spanner crab. The DD cheeseburger ($30) is decadent and well-seasoned, with melted cheese, tangy pickles and sharp sauce, with a perfectly dressed side salad. (Though, I was told the patty is served medium rare, but mine leaned more towards well done). Also great: Jack's Creek scotch fillet from Willow Tree ($56), with a charred, fire-kissed crust, glossy jus and golden, salt-dusted fries. Bonus points for the ambitious kid’s menu, too, with pan-roasted fish, roast chicken, grilled steak, burger, and pasta – served with fries or veg (all $16).
An ice cream sundae ($19), Valrhona chocolate cake ($22), profiterole ($21), Carmelia chocolate passionfruit truffle ($7), and cheese (from $19) make up the after-dinner treats menu.
You know when you order a Bloody Mary and it comes out watery and lacklustre, without the kick of spice from Tabasco or the umami from Worcestershire? The one at The Dry Dock ($21) is not that – in fact, it’s a ripper: properly stiff, spiced, with tang, salt and sweetness, garnished with a chilli salt rim, a fat olive and a crunchy celery stick. The team also makes a tip-top Negroni, and on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights, from 9-10 pm, there’s a cocktail happy hour, with $16 Margs, Cosmos and Espresso Martinis.
On the beer line-up, there’s Carlton, Reschs, Hahn, Stone & Wood, Coopers, Balter, and Guinness, plus locals Hawks, Yulli’s and Mountain Culture. A bottle of Vickery Polish Hill River Riesling 2024 ($93) is a crisp, zesty counterbalance to the bold dishes.
Two pages of the drinks menu are dedicated to low and non-alcoholic options, including six fun, fruity mocktails, as well as spirits – in case you’re taking a leaf out of the pub’s name.
I've got three. The Dry Dock is easy to get to: just a five-minute walk from Balmain Ferry Wharf and a 10-minute ferry ride from Sydney’s Circular Quay. Your doggo is welcome in the public bar, so long as they’re on a leash. Plus, there’s a late-night menu (including the burger) available after 10pm.
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