It’s a seasonal pattern as reliable as the naïve optimism of spring: every year when winter comes around, something calls me to the Blue Mountains. I want to stand on the edge of a lookout and breathe in the cold, refined air as treetops unfurl in front of me for miles. I want to hike along mountain paths and lose hours rummaging through vintage stores. I want to spend an evening by a roaring fire with a glass of red wine and wake up to the sound of raindrops on damp earth and gum leaves rustling in the wind.
Shrouded in an ethereal blue haze that seems clarified in the winter light, the Blue Mountains is the kind of ravishingly beautiful place that Pinterest travel boards are made of, so it’s surprising that the place isn’t littered with luxury hotels. Sure, there are a few big hotels offering traditional old-school hospitality and a good selection of Airbnbs ranging from cosy cabins to huge family homes, but the Upper Blue Mountains region was surprisingly lacking a high-end, boutique designer stay. That was true until Chalets at Blackheath opened its doors – setting the gold standard in the area with its barefoot luxury aesthetic and abundantly generous hospitality. Three years on, I visited for a winter weekend, and am happy to confirm that the wattle-dotted property is only getting better with age.
Why stay at Chalets at Blackheath?
If you’re looking to go all out on your trip to the Blue Mountains – to stay in a hotel that reflects the intense natural beauty of the area – this is the answer. Design lover Angela O’Connell took on the property after the devastating bushfires of 2019 – a 6.8-hectare pocket of bushland on the border of the Blue Mountains National Park. With a vision of creating "a luxurious sanctuary immersed in nature", Angela set about designing the four standalone chalets that now punctuate the property and seeding native plants that have since grown to create a maze-like, leafy oasis.
The architecturally-stunning chalets hide at the end of dusty paths that weave between the newly thriving trees. Amongst the bush, you’ll also find a wide communal firepit where guests roast marshmallows on clear, cloudless nights, and a fleet of e-bikes waiting to be taken for a spin along the sun-drenched mountain paths.
When we visit, the weather calls for indoor activities instead: a dense, quiet blanket of mist holds the property in a still, muted embrace.
I have no doubt that a stay here in the sunshine would be wonderful – sprawled on the deck in the morning sun and falling asleep with the doors open to the sounds of cicadas and the seductive scent of summer – but I can’t help but think it shines in the rain, with the leaves growing heavy and the damp earth and eucalyptus thickening the air.
What are the rooms like at Chalets at Blackheath?
When she was designing the rooms, Angela sought to bring the outside in, with a gorgeously minimalist approach that celebrates natural fibres, earthy colours, and soft, organic shapes. Through vast glass doors, a super-soft king-sized bed sits in the centre of the room, backed by an earth-coloured feature wall that’s been threaded with rocks found on the property. Statement light fixtures on either side of the bed are the only things fixed to the walls, along with one simple shelf above the kitchenette holding six perfectly-formed handmade mugs and four wide, thin glasses begging to be filled with wine. On one side of the bed, a fireplace sits between two teddy bear–brown chairs that are as comfortable as they are chic. The other side is home to a perfectly equipped kitchenette, with pots, pans and utensils all carefully hidden behind chrome-black cabinetry.
The bathroom, towards the back of the chalet, is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen – flooded with natural light that pours in through the skylights and the floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the bathtub in the corner. Whitewashed walls curve softly behind a spacious double shower that’s lined with caramel-coloured tiles, and two huge sinks are cut into a marble countertop that holds soft bambuka towels and luxe Leif toiletries.
Through the windows that line the front half of the chalet, a textural palette of native leaves forms a moving painting that dances in the wind as we wake in the morning to the gentle sound of rain.
What is the service like at Chalets at Blackheath?
Arriving at Chalets, you’re greeted like a friend rather than an anonymous guest, so it makes sense to me that the hotel – although new – already has a committed list of regulars. It’s pouring rain when we arrive, and Jack (the on-duty host) meets us at the car with umbrellas and leads us into the warmly lit library. We’re offered a drink (kombucha, locally brewed beer, or a glass of wine) and take a seat on the designer sofas to go through the check-in process.
The service is the same throughout our stay – friendly and generous. There’s a host on duty until 8pm every evening, so you can text with any requests (late check-outs/ board game delivery/ restaurant reservation) and they’ll do what they can to help.
Which are the best restaurants at Chalets at Blackheath?
There’s no dedicated restaurant on site, but you’ll never go hungry. A plate of locally sourced treats heroing Indigenous ingredients is waiting for us in the room when we check in, and the cupboard is stocked with a hefty selection of complimentary snacks. Loaded cheeseboards or barbecue platters can be delivered to your room if you book ahead, and the fruit bowl in the communal library is always overflowing.
In the mornings, the library plays host to a perfectly crafted breakfast – golden pastries from Black Cockatoo, fresh fruit from the local green grocer, and yoghurt from Meredith Dairy.
“We don’t like to serve anything too oily or heavy – this is the kind of breakfast that actually sets you up for a good hike,” Jack explains as we tuck into our second helping.
Although the chalets are well equipped with everything you need to cook up a winter feast by the fire or a summer barbecue under the stars, it’s worth checking out at least one restaurant in town during your stay. Head to Ates for Mediterranean-inspired share plates, Blaq for creative, Mexican-fusion dishes, and Frankie and Mo’s (a gorgeous family-run wine bar) for seasonal dishes served with unpretentious charm and excellent, low-intervention vino.
Is there a gym or pool at Chalets at Blackheath?
There’s no standard hotel gym or pool, but Chalets isn’t a standard hotel. Yoga mats and e-bikes are provided, and with some of the world’s most beautiful walking trails on your doorstep, it would be a crime to come here and get your steps in on a treadmill. If a swim or a soak is what you’re after, there are several public pools and bathhouses nearby, but the best places to swim are the naturally forming lagoons that hide deep in the valleys. Ask the team to point you in the direction of a favourite swimming hole and they’ll happily oblige, and in the booklet in your room you’ll find details of nearby walking tracks and trails – many (including the world-famous Grand Canyon Walking Track) within easy walking distance from the grounds.
What’s the area like around Chalets at Blackheath?
Blackheath (a seven-minute drive from the hotel) is one of several delightfully left-of-centre towns dotted around the Blue Mountains, and the tiny town centre has everything you need for a weekend excursion: a perfect wine bar (as mentioned above), a cosy record store/ listening bar (Side B), a solid café (Hounslow), a handful of vintage stores and bookshops (special mention goes to Stephen from Glebe Books, who found me a signed copy of Tim Winton’s autobiography for a ridiculously good price), and a magical bathhouse in a heritage-listed terrace.
But the biggest drawcard here is, of course, the mountains themselves – the spectacular, world-famous masterpieces that fall out in every direction from various, easily accessible lookouts.
A fifteen-minute walk from your chalet will take you to Evans Head Lookout, a breathtaking vantage point on the very edge of an infinite sandstone escarpment. From here, you can watch clouds form and fold and morph and dissipate into the air, and the tops of trees dance together with a harmonious elegance that makes you believe that they must, surely, be one holistic entity. A visit to the Blue Mountains reminds you of the philosophical meaning of the word “sublime”: the pleasure found in being overwhelmed, sometimes terrified, by the immense magnificence of nature. A stay at Chalets reminds you of the everyday definition of the word: "of very great excellence or beauty".
Chalets at Blackheath is part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World brand – a global collection of luxury independent hotels. So if a hotel like this is your kind of stay, you can explore more options here.
Address: 394 Evans Lookout Rd, Blackheath, NSW, 2785
Price per night: From $1,300
Closest transport link: Blackheath train station is a six minute drive from the hotel – transfers can be organised by hotel staff on request.
Book now: Over here.
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