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A crisp taro chip arrives crowned with beef tartare, flavoured with barley doenjang and anchovy, topped with kimchi and delicate leaves of vibrant, purple-hued shiso. It’s as elegant as it is delicious – savoury, rich, moreish – and just one of the stunning, whimsical dishes on Allta’s 11-course tasting menu.
The modern Korean fine diner is headed up by talented executive chef Jung-Su Chang, who has experience working in Michelin-starred restaurants in South Korea, including Jungsik Seoul, as well as Michael Mina in San Francisco and Moon Under Water in Melbourne. Originally opening in Sydney’s CBD, the award-winning restaurant has recently moved to a light-filled space on Reservoir Street, the former home of Beau. The sleek 22-seat space, all neutral tones, natural materials, and soft linen curtains, feels a world away from the grungy streets of Surry Hills. Stepping inside, you know you’re in for something special.
Another playful snack features tiny, perfect slices of rainbow-coloured vegetables, enhanced by Korean mustard and wrapped in a cute egg yolk tie that looks like Licorice Allsorts (sans black). Meanwhile, one of my favourite dishes sees cured Hiramasa kingfish coated in a katsuobushi aioli, brightened with celery-ginger vinaigrette and ponzu-dashi jelly, loaded onto crisp seaweed and devoured in seconds. A sublime dessert featuring cream cheese mousse, passionfruit sorbet, lime-cured pineapple, and honeycomb tastes like a tropical holiday, followed by a nori rice crisp with a squiggle of salted caramel – a grown-up take on an LCM bar.
Service is another highlight, with the floor team explaining each intricate dish with genuine warmth and flair, and the sommeliers detailing the story behind each beautiful drop of wine.
Jung-Su Chang says: "Allta is more than a restaurant; it's a celebration of Korean cuisine and culture. With every dish, we aim to recreate the essence of love and truth that defines Korean cooking, delivering a deeply personal moment for our guests. Each bite tells a story – a narrative of tradition and innovation, a homage to the rich tapestry of flavours that have shaped Korean cuisine."
You’ll need to loosen your wallet: Allta’s 11-course degustation, which features snacks, entrees, mains and desserts, costs $279 per person. Guests can opt to enjoy it with a wine or tea pairing. But this is exciting, innovative cooking, rooted in Korean heritage and executed through a modern lens – and there are few places like it in Sydney.
Find out more here.
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