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As we drive north-west from Sydney to Bowen Mountain, at the foothills of the Blue Mountains in the Hawkesbury region, the landscape is surprisingly lush. I’m used to the dry bush of the Blue Mountains, so I don’t expect to discover this verdant, tropical-like oasis, hidden in the sanctuary that is Songoma Spicers Retreat. The peaceful, leafy restaurant looks out over the retreat’s pool and a valley. It’s worth the trip just for the scenery.
The vibe
As I come up the driveway, I realise it’s going to be very hard to peel myself away from this place at the end of lunch. Amara is at the centre of the resort, so you instantly feel like you’re on holiday, and you’re tempted to check in and stay for more than a day.
‘Amara’ is the Zulu word for grace, and the restaurant’s interior subtly references South African-style design through warm earthy tones, natural textures and sculptural accents. It’s a space that feels at home in this tranquil, green setting.
Also tying in with the setting, head chef Will Houia (who’s worked in kitchens at Michelin-starred Relæ in Copenhagen, three-hatted NZ restaurants Pasture and Roots Restaurant, and Sydney’s renowned Firedoor) is big on using organic and seasonal produce from the Hawkesbury region – from within a one-hour drive radius.
The food
You don’t drop into Amara for a casual bite to eat. For lunch they serve a five-course degustation ($145 per person) – a very tasty one that puts the ‘special’ in the phrase ‘special occasion’. (For dinner, it’s seven courses for $165.)
The first course is a couple of snacks: a potato-galette-slash-hash-brown-type bite, topped with a dollop of yuzu cream and a dab of gochujang (a Korean fermented red chili paste); and a delicate tart with thin shavings of peach, alongside fennel and almond. The potato bite is crispy, salty, creamy comfort food, while the peach tart is fruity and vibrant – clever and delicious complements to each other.
Next up is what I think will be my favourite dish, but at the time I don’t yet know of the delights still to come. It is small, diced cubes of kingfish crudo and cucumber in a shallow pool of apple and cucumber juice. It’s topped with small dollops of pink peppercorn mayo that offest the dish’s freshness beautifully.
The hits keep coming. Next, some richer, “meatier” dishes – a seared, caramelised king brown mushroom on a bed of the most velvety smooth blended potato; then a slice of rare steak cooked in a tamarind sauce with more silky mash and stewed Barletta onions (which are a bit like shallots). It’s impossible to pick a favourite dish, everything is packed full of flavour and texture.
Houia knows how to take diners on a journey through fresh to umami flavours then back again. I’m not a big sweets girl but it’s love at first sight for me and this dessert, which is essentially a bowl of fancy strawberries and cream. Halved, poached strawberries sit atop a cloud of “lovage milk” (a cream that Houia has infused with earthy, aromatic lovage). There’s also strawberry juice, and delicate shavings of lime rind, so the dish is the prettiest mix of red, white and green – straight out of my childhood Strawberry Shortcake dreams. It tastes just as good as it looks; a perfectly light finale to a well-rounded meal.
The drinks
You can choose to have a wine pairing for $99; if so, you’ll be served: Louis Roederer Collection 246 Champagne; Famille Hugel Pinot Gris 2022 from Alsace, France; Polperro Mill Hill Chardonnay 2022 from Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula; Jackaman’s Cab Sauv 2021 from South Australia’s Barossa; and a Bluebird Botrytis Viognier from Rylston, NSW.
I’m driving a couple of hours onto Bathurst after lunch, so I instead opt to start with a Berry Spritz (a refreshing mix of Bombay Sapphire gin, tonic and fresh raspberry juice and berries), followed by a glass of crisp, dry and zesty Side Gate Prosecco from the Adelaide Hills.
Time Out tip
You have to book in for lunch or dinner at Amara. And why not make a proper getaway of it? Amara is a 1-hour, 15-minute drive from Sydney CBD, at Spicers Songoma Retreat, which is one of Australia’s first Michelin Key hotels. Our Travel & News Editor Mel Woodley stayed – check out what she thought.
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