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People stir early in Cronulla, up before the birds for a surf, swim or jog along the Esplanade. After watching the dawn light ripple over the water, locals generally crunch back across the sand to converge at a local café for an early morning jolt of java. Coffee and a pastry at Fred’s Providore features on a lot of schedules. As night falls, the popular café, butchery and providore vanishes, like a pebble in a rock pool, and Fred’s After Hours emerges. The new wine bar and bistro, by butcher-turned-builder Nathan Creary, has been welcomed wildly by the neighbourhood. And as a long-time Cronulla local, I can say it’s the space we needed.
The vibe
As the curtains come down on the butcher’s glass cabinet, the mode and mood switches to a sophisticated Euro-leaning wine bar and bistro. While there are now a plethora of great places to eat and drink in Cronulla, Fred's After Hours hits differently. It’s absolutely my new go-to for a glass of wine and low-key bite to eat within walking distance of home. Like so many others in the community, I appreciate the fact I don’t have to trek into the city. It's a snug canteen for all comers. Wining and dining tonight are a few members of the Shark Island Psycho Swimmers (SIPS) club. A table of young school mums. And a couple just back from Europe who appreciate the Paris bistro vibe. The waiters are a particular delight, especially young Jude, who pirouettes around the small space with grace, is knowledgeable, passionate and attentive without being intrusive. The intimate 36-seater space also benefits from the attention paid to nailing the acoustics, taking the ear-piercing din out of the dining experience with a ceiling stuffed with batts. Every aspect has been fastidiously thought through, with the warm lighting, leather banquettes, exposed brickwork and marble tables all adding to the seductive atmosphere.
The food
Fred’s After Hours is so clearly a passion project for Creary, and his dream has been well and truly realised. What could be better, in the early evening light, than strolling down to this neighbourhood wine bar and bistro and choosing a little bit of what you fancy. My son Marley and I start with a couple of cacio e pepe croquettes. Fried until crisp, they have crunch and heft, arriving piping-hot and perfectly al dente. A delight in one bite. Tuna crudo is served on sesame crackers in silky slices, made sweet with mango salsa and punched up with a few pearls of finger lime. We know we’re onto a good thing ordering the grass-fed steak tartare topped with tiny capers and served showered with 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano. The crisp shards of crostini add a welcome crunch and texture. It’s at this point we cancel the side of French fries, as my son – hungry after a long surf – realises he won’t be going home hungry. After a small break between courses, the chicken cotoletta arrives and it’s a revelation. This Italian-style schnitzel with the panko-parmesan crust is served golden and crisp with a tarragon jus, but benefits from a few more wedges of lemon (Jude to the rescue). I would strongly recommend all meat-lovers order the Wagyu MB9+ intercostal skewer with horseradish cream and jus. It’s ridiculously rich with the sort of fat that melts like butter on the tongue and tips us over the edge. Instead of dessert, I pick up a bottle of Random Harvest caramelised fig, honey and vanilla vinegar, which sits at eye level on the well-stacked shelf of gourmet groceries beside us.
The drinks
Fred’s After Hours is obviously dedicated to showcasing the premium cuts on offer at the butcher and providore, which also has sister butchery Farmgate 2 Plate in nearby Burraneer. But the drinks list, curated by sommelier Jeff Beresford, also deserves a bit of fuss. The wine list features top drops from Australia, New Zealand, France and Italy. Although we’re tempted by the option of a glass of Pol Roger or Ruinart Champagne, we settle on a glass of VineMind Clare riesling and Mosselini pinot gris from the Mornington Peninsula. Both pair perfectly with our croquettes and crudo. A glass of Heathvale Shiraz 2021 is full-bodied with notes of dense blackberry and plum and is also a great match for the Wagyu. The cotoletta also works really well with the fruit-forward Pierre’s Tempranillo 2022 which has rich berry and plum aromas and structure to boot. Finish with a Passionfruit Martini (Fred’s version of the Pornstar Martini), which will whet the appetite for a return visit. Cronulla after dark never looked so fine and dandy.
Time Out tip
Visit Cronulla for a staycation so you can swim with the (SIPS) in the morning and meet your new friends at Fred’s After Hours later that evening.
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