Matteo is a slice of Italy in Double Bay. Head chef Angelo Malerba (ex-Otto and Via Alta) draws on his memories of growing up in Puglia, Southern Italy, to create the menu. Here, the focus is on quality, seasonal ingredients, and not doing much to them, allowing the taste of the produce to shine. So sweet heirloom cherry tomatoes are paired with crunchy cucumber, gazpacho and golden croutons; ruby jewelled tuna is amped up with fried baby capers, olive ash, sliced chillies and lemon dressing; and linguini is twirled with fresh, salty clams, zucchini, garlic and bottarga dust. The pasta is hand made daily, and there’s a courtyard perfect for knocking back Spritzes in the sunshine
It’s a formula that’s clearly been working well. This Eastern Suburbs hotspot – which is owned by Eddie Levy (Lobo Plantation and Kittyhawk) and Adam Abrams (The Island and Osborn House) – has been open for more than six years and still pumps daily.
And while the antipasto and pasta are great at Matteo, we reckon the wood-fired pizza is where it’s at. The dough is rolled and hand-stretched by the chefs, toppings are added, and then it’s fired in the oven. The crust comes out charred and blistered by the flames, with a perfect pillowy bite. There are 12 options to choose from, including the Siciliana with ricotta, smoked mozzarella, tomato, eggplant, parmigiano and basil; the Capri with fior di latte, tomato, leg ham, mushroom, artichoke and black olives; and Porchetta with succulent and crispy pork, roasted potatoes, smoked provola and fennel seeds. Other highlights on the menu include spicy vodka rigatoni; pappardelle with pork sausage, porcini mushroom, zucchini and truffle pecorino cheese. And you can finish with a trio of seasonal fruit gelato – yum.
Head bartender Mattia Bertolani (ex-Bel & Brio)’s cocktail menu is fun and flirty, including the Pornstar Matteo with vodka, lychee liqueur, lemon juice, passionfruit and vanilla; and the Banana Dream made with coconut rum, banana liquor, pineapple juice, coconut yoghurt and lime.
A seat in Matteo’s sunny courtyard, armed with a fruity Spritz and a banging pizza is almost as good as the real deal. That's where we'll be.
