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Da Orazio pizza oven
Photograph: Jason Loucas

The best pizza in Sydney

However you slice it, these are the upper crust

Written by
Maxim Boon
,
Divya Venkataraman
&
Elizabeth McDonald
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Melbourne may pride itself on its Italian heritage, but Sydney is no slacker when it comes to Italian food. We have amazing delis, high-end purveyors of pasta and a raft of gelato and pastry shops that will keep you riding high on sugar all year long. But it's our pizza game that shines brightest. We know a thing or two about what it takes to make excellent pizza and these are the places that are topping the class with their pies.

Hungry for more? Here's our pick of the very best restaurants in Sydney right now.

Sydney's best pizza

  • Restaurants
  • Newtown

Order the: Clam

On a pizza. It’s sounds too crazy to work. The little tender clams are steamed and pried from their shells, while the broth is cooked down with white wine and cream until it achieves an intense concentrated chowder flavour. They spread it over the top and then apply a liberal sprinkling of parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice before it slides into the shiny red wood-fired oven that is radiating heat out from the centre of the restaurant. 

Takeaway or delivery? Both. You can order through their website here.

  • Restaurants
  • Darlinghurst

Order the: Lucio 

Here’s a fun fact: the shape you make when you fold a piece 
of pizza in half to eat it is called a libretto. Yup, just like in the opera. And you know you’re eating a good pizza when you can fold with ease. The list here is strictly classical (your Margheritas, your marinaras, your diavolas), though there are a couple of house specialties, such as the Lucio. Named for chef and owner Lucio de Falco, the Lucio is about the only acceptable half-and-half in town. It’s half a regular Margherita – thin-based yet puffy and charred on the sides – and half a ham-and-ricotta calzone. Can we get a mamma mia?

Takeaway and delivery? You betcha. Order through their website here.

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  • Restaurants
  • Newtown

Order the: Mushroom with black garlic and talleggio

Getting your hands on a Westwood pizza for dinner requires the meticulous planning and precision of a Swiss military operation – these pies are in hot demand. Pizzas are seasonal, but if it's around, go for the mushroom. A thin, charry, chewy crust that’s been fermented for three days is the base of an earthy flavour bomb. There's black garlic, with mixed funghi on top, tallegio for extra punch, roasted cocktail onions and leeks for sweet balance, and a wedge of lemon and fresh parsley to pull all those base notes into sharp focus. 

Takeaway or delivery? Take away is available, just give them a call.

  • Restaurants
  • Bondi Beach
  • price 2 of 4

Order the: Diavola

Anyone who loved Da Orazio the first time around, when it opened at the same address in 2013, can expect some deja vu – of the most delicious kind. There is still the comprehensive Neapolitan pizza offering, each hand-thrown and charred to perfection in the wood-fired oven by dedicated paddle-wielding pizzaiolos who rule over their very own quadrant of the kitchen. The sweet, sunkissed acidity of the house-made passata sparring with the smoky, blistered earthiness of the perfectly proofed crust is so good it more than deserves to feature in 17 of the 18 pizza options on the menu.

Take away or delivery? Both are available. Place an order by phone via the number listed on the website.

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  • Restaurants
  • Potts Point

Order the: WA octopus with 'nduja relish and green chilli salsa 

If fine dining wine bar Monopole, which called Ria's site home until late 2020, were an investment banker’s loafer, then Ria is more like an all-white sneaker – chic and unfussy. It's got the approachability of a neighbourhood joint, but instead of an unwieldy range of pizzas and your pick of two house pours, Ria’s wine list is eye-wateringly long, while the pizza selection is to the point: pick from four pies with a tomato sauce, three on white and one with pesto. Bases are typically sourdough, but you can also get a wholemeal version for a denser, more earthy grounding. The crusts are the star here: dense, chewy and with the requisite fermented sour note – you’d be silly not to make the most of them but ordering a ‘crust dip’ or two.

Takeaway or delivery? Yep, both. Delivery via Uber Eats or pick up in store.

  • Restaurants
  • Rosebery

Order the: Salamino Die-hard 

Pizza Mario fans, breathe a sigh of relief: David Cowdrill’s spinoff restaurant, Da Mario, is serving the Salamino. If you’ve had the cheese-and-sausage pizza before, you know why this is the best news you've heard this month; if you haven’t, allow us to explain. The Salamino is your mouth’s new best friend: a thin, charred base all covered in melted mozzarella and big puddles of ricotta and spiced up with crisp curls of salami. It's soft and rich and runny and crunchy and salty and sweet and if you're anything like us, you'll fight like a fiend over the last piece – and then you'll order a second serve.

Takeaway or delivery? Take away, yes. Fri-Sun nights only.

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  • Restaurants
  • Newtown

Order the: Peperone Rosso

Turns out pizza without cheese is still bloody excellent. Sure, there were a lot of naysayers on the internet when Gigi on South King Street changed to a plant-based menu, but they were wrong, because a chewy, wood-fired pizza base covered in a layer of sweet golden tomato puree and tender ribbons of capsicum gets all the umami depth it needs from a liberal dose of olive tapenade, capers, chilli, oregano and olive oil. The salty, savoury and spice trifecta hits all the right flavour zones on your tongue – we swear you won’t even miss the mozzarella. Don’t believe us? Just try getting a table – it’s a packed house every night.

Takeaway or delivery? Take aways are available but no delivery. Order through their website here.

  • Restaurants
  • Italian
  • Surry Hills
  • price 2 of 4

Order the: Porcini

The first Sydney wing of this long-standing Melbourne has lost none of its Latin luxe in heading north of the border. The salumi boards are laden with a Pantone palette of pinks – mortadella, prosciutto, wagyu bresaola and salami – and the pizzas come out of the ovens hot enough that you lose fingerprints in your haste to tear off a slice of the wild mushroom pizza on a white base laden with stretchy mozzarella and the sharp bite of pecorino.

Takeaway or delivery? Both. Head to their website to order.

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  • Restaurants
  • Pizza
  • Marrickville

Order the: Jerusalem artichoke cream, king brown mushrooms, asparagus, fior di latte and truffle oil

This fan favourite is no longer the domain of the Two Chaps team, who have passed it on to new hands – but the quality has stayed high. Pizzas are still meatless, and the star of all the veggo options has to be the one which sits fat, king brown mushrooms atop a creamy artichoke layer and douses the whole thing in truffle oil. 

Takeaway or delivery? You bet! Both are available through their website.

  • Restaurants
  • Darlinghurst

Order the: Pinza de’ fiori

Here the pizze are smaller, and oval, not round. They’re made from a very soft dough – up to 80 per cent water – that is proved for 72 hours to keep it light and fluffy, and then crowned in 11 flavour combos, including a Margherita. But we’d go back for the de’ fiori, a white base capped with melted and fresh mozzarella, parmesan, zucchini flowers and whole anchovies that come crashing through all that light, springtime freshness like a flavour wrecking ball.

Takeaway or delivery? Both. Head to their website to order.

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  • Restaurants
  • Balmain

Order the: Patate e salsiccia

This tiny little shop is a loud and local slice of White Bay, offering traditional pizza from (gasp!) an electric oven. They’ve got some pretty strict rules here. Try ordering a ham-and-pineapple or a half-and-half and you’ll be laughed out of Balmain. But there’s no need for a Tropicana when you’ve got a Margherita. As much as we always enjoy that classic of tomato, Italian buffalo mozzarella and basil, it’s Rosso Pomodoro’s patate e salsiccia – potato, Italian sausage and rosemary – that gets our vote. The pizza base is charred and bubbly, yet soft and yielding. The sausage is broken into little chunks, flavouring the thin, starchy slices of potato, all perfumed by the rosemary.

Takeaway or delivery? Both are available, head to their website for full menu.

  • Restaurants
  • Surry Hills

Order the: Brandi

The lights are low, the chatter is jovial and the pizza is excellent at the Surry Hills arm of Bronte’s favourite pizza parlour. They have eight pizze on the menu that can be ordered bianchi (white) or rosso (red). The Brandi is as rigid as a military guard when it comes to following the rules for an AVPN-approved Margherita: six orbs of DOP cheese, a vermillion tomato base and four fresh basil leaves on top. The careful layout looks like an edible quilt piece, and straight out of the oven the bases here have just enough structural integrity to get the food to your mouth without it dropping in your lap.

Takeaway and delivery? You can pick up a hot pizza from the shop, or they're delivery vac-sealed pizzas to finish at home.

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  • Restaurants
  • Pizza
  • Surry Hills

Order the: Isabel, a hot mess of 'nduja, pecorino and friarelli

Where La Panchina really shines is the dough. The crisp base is the sort that causes crust fanatics to fall over themselves. It’s been proofed for up to two days, so you don’t leave the place with a bloated pizza belly. The classic Margherita (fresh tomato, mozz and a baby basil leaf per slice) is a downright steal  at $18, and another $3 will get you a zhuzhed-up version topped with bufala mozzarella instead.

Takeaway or delivery? Take away, yes. Place your pick-up order online.

  • Bars
  • Sydney
  • price 1 of 4

Order the: Nonna vs Nonno, starring coppa, mozzarella, provolone and truffle paste

Oh, Frankie's. What's not to love? Lots of space to roam free, pints, pinball and a rotating roll call of excellent slices dished up and ready to go for six bucks in a matter of minutes. It pays to order a full pie though – you get to choose from a much broader selection, and cooking to order ensures the pie arrives just that little bit crisper and fresher. 

Takeaway and delivery? Take away is available. 

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  • Restaurants
  • Bondi Beach

Order the: Speck e funghi trifolati 

These aren’t the can’t-get-it-through-the-doorway pizze of your American dreams – where they fit neatly on the plate, and there’s no need for a wire stand to get everything on the table. The piccantosa is maximum flavour for minimum fuss. It’s a pantry-friendly riff on a Margherita – when the basil plant is hibernating just swirl some pesto over the top, add some chilli and you’re good to go. The speck e funghi trifolati takes care of the toppings the piccantosa forgot. Mixed mushrooms are enmeshed in a cheesy web of mozzarella and then dressed in thin, gauzy strips of prosciutto.

Takeaway or delivery? Pick up and delivery options can be yours via the website.

  • Restaurants
  • Italian
  • Double Bay

Order the: Burrata

While you always want to try a Margherita as a control pizza (you need to compare the classics) the one that’s getting a second date at Matteo is the Burrata. It's strongly recommended by our waitperson on the merits of the just-cooked broccoli florets, cavalier anchovy application and a whole, fresh burrata orb in the middle like a pearl, destined to be smashed open and spread across the blistered pizza surface. Talk about the cream of the crop.

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Via Napoli Pizzeria - Lane Cove
  • Restaurants
  • Lane Cove

Order the: Luigi's fantasy pizza

Here comes fun. And we mean it. Never has Lane Cove seemed like a more attractive place to take a long Friday lunch. Inside, the huge wood-fired pizza ovens are getting a thorough workout as the burly-armed pizzaioli push huge wooden paddles laden with pizza 
in and out. It’s here that you can eat a two-metre-long pizza. That’s the equivalent of just under two Kylie Minogues, toe-to-toe. It’s also about eight Minogues worth of lunch. Go for a metre-long pizza with your choice of toppings if you’re not feeling quite as ambitious.

Takeaway or delivery? Orders are available to pick up via their website.

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