As far as the rest of the world's concerned, Japanese pizza exists in a weird parallel universe where cabbage, mayonnaise, mochi and Korean bulgogi are all considered legitimate toppings. Rather less attention gets paid to the fact that, over the past decade or so, Japan's pizzerias have started to get very good indeed. So good, in fact, that you can now find margheritas in Tokyo that are every bit as good as what you'd get in Naples – albeit three or four times as expensive.
While we think Da Isa – run by prize-winning pizzaiolo Hisanori Yamamoto – is currently producing the best pizza in Tokyo, you no longer have to schlep across town to get your fix. Some of the best restaurants, like Massimottavio and Pizzeria da Peppe Napoli Sta’ Ca", are run by Italians; others are entirely homegrown operations, overseen by Japanese chefs who learned the ropes in Italian kitchens – or, in the case of Seirinkan's Susumu Kakinuma, just by eating a lot of pizza. And if you prefer American-style pies to the Italian variety, don't worry: we've also found space for a few places that do it right.
Reviews by James Hadfield