I’m a big fan of this place. I’ve stayed here five or six times now, I think? Sometimes because I’ve missed my last train home (happens a lot), others simply because I’ve been after a reliable, inexpensive hotel with polished service and a decent bar. I am a simple man, with simple needs.
It’s been around for a while – since 1909, in fact – but it had a pretty major refurb back in 2019. And while the new look is a nice contemporary nod to the hotel’s Art Deco roots, you can’t help but feel it’s a shame the Oliver P Bernard-designed original interiors didn’t survive previous refurbs: trawl through the archives (which you can actually do, at the V&A Museum) and you’ll see the kind of look most hoteliers would now kill for – not least a foyer deemed such a fine example of Art Deco excellence that the V&A itself rebuilt and exhibited it back in 2002.
So yeah, there’s plenty of history lost here, but look hard enough and you can see a few of the original bits and bobs buffed up with a good lick of Brasso. I still like the new look though – even the red telephone box just inside the door that I was initially going to dismiss as a contrived nod to the tourist buck (I literally saw someone point at it and, confusingly, say ‘ooh Paddington!’) but which, on a return visit, I liked for its nostalgic retro vibes. Whip past that talking point and you’re met with a lobby that I’ve heard can get too busy (though not on my visits), and that leads to a fine little cocktail bar that mixes a mean G&T. A mean G&T which is, coincidentally, the culprit for me missing my train so often. I like that kind of kismet.
So, what’s the vibe?
Hip young things be warned; you’ll probably be sharing at least some of the place with theatre-goers of a certain vintage, probably bussed in on some kind of beano. I’ve seen groups merrily making their way to a show on each of my visits here. And that’s the reality of this place – its location right in the middle of tourist-town means you’re going to bump into a fair few, well, tourists. But you know what? People on holiday tend to be a cheery bunch, and if you can’t rise above your world-weary cynicism to enjoy their carefree smiles, fanny packs and inefficient walking patterns then frankly that’s your problem.
What are the rooms like?
Well, they’re certainly not the biggest but the refurb has left them modern in a modest, practical and perfectly inoffensive sort of way. If I sound like I don’t have a lot to say about them that’s because there’s really not a lot to say about them, but sometimes unremarkable is actually just fine? There’s a bed, cupboards, a door, loo, shower…. To be honest, they don’t look much different from some of the five-star stays I’ve had in Mayfair or Park Lane (I know, tough gig). One thing I will say, though, is that the sound-proofing is excellent, especially for an old building like this – my room overlooked The Strand itself and I couldn’t hear a peep from one of London’s busiest streets. My only gripe? The reception on the television kept cutting out, but I should read more anyway, so it did me a favour. Also, I’m sure they would have quickly fixed it if I’d called reception.
And the service?
Great! Sweet as pie, helpful, considerate, efficient. And that quality service continues even when customers are a total pain in the arse. On one visit I repeatedly told them their system had the wrong date for my booking and ‘of course I was right and just give me a minute because I’ve got the confirmation here to prove it’. I didn’t, of course, but they were exceptionally polite when correcting me, and without fuss organised me a room while I sought embarrassed solace in my phone. I like the people here.
Where are you going to eat and drink?
So those decent G&Ts in the bar are worth trying – and I’m sure the food at the hotel’s restaurant, Haxells, is perfectly fine – but the truth is you’ve got some world-class restaurants and bars within walking distance, so why stay on-site? I often end up at Joe Allen (service is some of the best in town and you can pretend you’re in the know by ordering the not-actually-very-secret off-menu burger – it’s good). Then you’ve got two Barrafinas nearby for tapas, Roka for (pricey) Japanese, Dishoom for crowd-pleasing Indian cuisine, Taiwanese dumplings at Din Tai Fung… basically there’s a lot of serious culinary choice around here. But if you were to push me for my pick of this excellent bunch? Easy. The Barbary: a sensational North African/Mediterranean restaurant 10 minutes’ walk from the hotel that served me the best meal I’ve had in London. (Order the octopus.)
Anything else nearby?
Oh boy, where to start? You’ve got first-rate art exhibitions at Somerset House over the road, Covent Garden Piazza basically behind you (the antiques market on a Monday is worth a look), The National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, The Mall, Chinatown, Soho… if it’s central London you’re after you’re in a pretty good place. You probably don’t want to spend too much time on the actual Strand though – not a lot to recommend here unless you’re going to one of the theatres, or you like watching vehicles go down a road.
Why you should book here
Location, location, location, of course. But the fact that you’re getting a lot of bang for your buck makes this a bit of no-brainer. Want to make it even more of an attractive proposition? Book as late as possible and you’re likely to get yourself an even better deal – this big old beast of a hotel has nearly 800 rooms, so there’s often some going cheap when it gets late. Knowledge borne from experience, that.
Address: 372 Strand, London WC2R 0JJ
Price per night: Rooms start at around £150, but shop late and you can get them cheaper
Nearest transport: Temple, Leicester Square, Charing Cross