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‘Delmonte’ is Italian for ‘from the mountains’; at Carlton's just-opened Delmonte restaurant, the name is a nod to the history, heritage and hospitality of Valli del Pasubio in Italy’s mountainous Veneto region. After all, owner Jamie Valmorbida’s grandfather Carlo was born there. When he moved to Melbourne, Carlo took over the heritage-listed King and Godfree building on Lygon Street in 1955, shaping it into an iconic food destination.
Delmonte has just opened its doors inside this very same building, returning to those Italian roots of community, food and wine. The second of three new venues from hospo entrepreneur Valmorbida, this 120-seater (with room for 40 outside) marks the next chapter in the revival of this historic landmark, which earlier saw the opening of Garfield Pizzeria.
Delmonte leans into something slower and more soulful: a neighbourhood Italian restaurant and wine room built around woodfired cooking and exceptional wine. At its heart is a wood oven and grill, setting the tone for a menu that’s grounded in the simplicity of a classic Italian osteria, yet open to a more modern interpretation.
“We’ve built the sort of place we'd want to go ourselves,” says owner Valmorbida. “Delmonte is Carlton’s new local. Somewhere you can come in for one drink and end up staying for dinner.”
Leading the kitchen is head chef Diana Desensi from Daphne (ex-Saint George, Julie, Pt Leo Estate), who also worked alongside culinary director Karen Martini. She’s joined by executive chef Mark Glenn (ex-Cumulus Inc., Pialligo Estate, Dinner by Heston). Together, the team is creating food that feels familiar yet refined. The menu pays quiet tribute to the building’s past as one of Melbourne’s most beloved delis, while produce from Donati’s Fine Meats – a local institution recently acquired by Valmorbida – continues that legacy of quality and tradition.
There's an expansive snack offering (think housemade focaccia Genovese with whipped cod roe, fritto misto and a dedicated salumi section), while the pastas are all familiar classics designed to be shared. From the larger options, we're salivating at the thought of the Donati's pork costelletta, stuffed with ham and fontina, and then crumbed and grilled.
Wine is central to the Delmonte experience, with a list curated by George McCullough alongside head sommelier Michael Hegarty (Osteria Renata, Rockpool). Italian drops take the spotlight, particularly from Piedmont, alongside a handful of rare bottles from the King and Godfree cellar. It’s a list designed for both casual glasses and special occasions, perfectly matched to the menu’s warmth and depth.
Designed by longtime collaborator Dion Hall, the space draws inspiration from European wine bars, with terrazzo floors, timber finishes and a welcoming feel that encourages guests to settle in. A record player built into the corner of the bar where a rotating line-up of local DJs will play should also encourage lingering at Delmonte will into the night.
With one more venue still to come – a basement cocktail and music bar set within the building’s former wine cellar – the full vision for King and Godfree is steadily taking shape. But for now, prepare to be charmed by Delmonte.
Delmonte is open now at 293 Lygon Street, Carlton. For more information and to make a booking, head to the website.
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