Kokoras

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Chef Alex Xinis made waves when he opened Tzaki, introducing Melbourne to a side of Greek cooking not well represented here. His spin-off Kokoras takes a more familiar format, drawing on the charcoal chicken shops found in every suburb, but with a Hellenic twist.

The vibe

Historically, charcoal chicken isn’t a dine-in situation – rather, a quick and nutritious mid-week meal for time-poor parents or workers on a lunch break. Though there are a few indoor stools and several more on the footpath, Kokoras stays true to its roots as a takeaway-centric spot.

But it’s not the old-school chicken shop you’re used to. Bright yellow branding and graphic design details carry through the space, framing a glass cabinet filled with fresh salads and sides. The visually driven menu makes it easier to sort through the options, with dine-in dishes served on silver platters.

The food 

The classic chicken shop combo – quarter or half chicken, plus sides – is the signature here. Choose from the OG ($21), pairing roast chook with iceberg salad, lemon potatoes and taramasalata, or the KK platter ($21), which subs in a grain salad, pickles, tzatziki and that moreish, fluffy flatbread Tzaki is known for. It’s served with wooden cutlery – a slight misstep for a dish this good, and not ideal for cutting meat off the bone – so your best bet is going in with your hands (expect to get messy).

The grain salad is a touch oily but has a nice bite from some cracked freekeh, with sweetness from the currants and carrot balancing the heavily seasoned chicken. It’s basted in lemon and oregano, then roasted until the skin crisps to a near-char while the inside stays juicy. Pickles lean beetroot-heavy, with onion and chilli adding needed acidity to cut through the richness. The tzatziki ties it together – cooling and minimal, which is welcome when everything else is so dialled up.

It comes in handy for the chicken dim sim ($4.50), which is seasoned with a slightly heavy hand (though the ouzo salt is a revelation when used sparingly). Still, it’s a fun, satisfying spin on the original, swapping pork for chicken mince that’s wrapped in a wonton wrapper and deep-fried.

The drinks

There’s no alcohol here (head to Tzaki for that), but a grab-and-go fridge houses local soft drinks and seltzers, including Cielo, Mateo, Mischief and Bobby.

Time Out tip

If you’re dining on a budget, grab a tarama chicken-stuffed pita for $12.50, or a quarter chicken with a side for $15.

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