Inside a converted 1800s terrace home typical of Sydney's Inner West is No 92 GPR, a two-storey wine bar and eatery that's bringing casual elegance back to this end of Glebe Point Road.
Walking in early on a summer evening, a faint, sunny glow emanating from No 92's back door draws us to take stock of the alfresco spaces before committing to a table in the main dining gallery. Good thing we checked: the courtyard is lovely and bright, overlooked by a giant elephant ear taro plant, its lush leaves drooping lazily over the white wire benches. In fact, it's the ideal spot to while away l'apero hour (the French equivalent of the aperitivo). From 3-6pm, refreshing twists on two cocktail favourites – Negronis cut with coconut and Margaritas sweetened with ripe guava – are paired with morish salty snacks for a very reasonable $12 a piece.
The food offering also takes its cues from the continent. Oiled Olasagasti anchovies come on charred sourdough toast atop a lather of lemon butter, while prawns cooked in garlic are nestled inside a sweet, pillowy brioche bun spread with 'nduja and kale kimchi. Larger, Euro-centric plates are also on offer if l'apero proves too fun to leave. Try the parsley and pecorino sausage stirred through al dente spaghetti or spools of silky tagliatelle with blue swimmer crab and the added richesse of browned butter.
Outside of l'apero hour, the cocktail menu heroes the classics, but if wine is what you're after, pick out a drop from the venue's extensive list – it's flush with small-batch naturals as well as familiar varieties.
Quasi-kitsch sea shapes inform the venue's design, from shell-shaped wall sconces couching warm light along the bottom floor, to pale, pendular ceiling fixtures that move in rhythm with the breeze outside. It's all the work of local Sydney-based Pattern Studio. Two floors play host to an eclectic mix of spaces, each room fit for a different purpose, just like a home.
The front dining space with a mantlepiece and fireplace is the cosy heart of No. 92, but leads beyond to a smaller dining hall sheltered by a curtain. Inside, a smattering of round tables creates intimacy. Head upstairs for two more rooms – one airy and light-filled; the other nostalgic, jewel-toned and packed with natural wine that you can buy straight from the rack. And if No 92's vintages really pop your cork, there's also a wine club you can sign up to.
Book in online at No 92 GPR – or just walk on in.