If the walls of The Fortune of War pub could talk, they’d tell tales of sailors and soldiers from days of yore, and of stockbrokers and software consultants from modern-day Sydney – all united by cold beer and good times. Now, nearly two centuries since it first opened, Sydney’s oldest continuously licensed pub has had a big-deal makeover, featuring a revamped boutique hotel and new bistro beneath its heritage-listed roof. And it’s open now.
When Fiona and Steve ‘Speedy’ Speed took over the historic Fortune of War in 2013, they knew that this venue in The Rocks was in need of a bit of a glow-up. And after a lot of work, guests are now able to eat, drink and stay under one roof. “It’s a place steeped in history, and now more people than ever will be able to enjoy it, whether they’re sitting at the historic hamper bar, relaxing in the bistro, enjoying the alfresco dining area, staying at the new boutique hotel accommodation or enjoying all four,” says Speed.
Say hello to Bistro 1828, named after the year the pub was first built. The dining destination has soaring ceilings, original windows, an open kitchen and a footprint that includes spaces that once housed The Push bar and two retail stores. Executive chef Mark Williamson (formerly of Bistro Moncur) is at helm, dishing up Aussie pub classics like fish 'n' chips, burgers, bangers and mash, and beef and Guinness stew, alongside new fresh salads, pastas and shared starters, with a Sunday roast in the works. What’s more, things now kick off early, with daily brekkie served from 7am onwards.
“When we first came down to The Rocks we thought how great it would be to one day serve up bacon and eggs at Sydney’s oldest pub,” adds Speed.
Then there's the Russell Boutique Hotel upstairs, which the team putting the finishing touches before it opens in time for Vivid. Each of its 28 rooms are uniquely styled with Australiana antiques, and a few rooms offer glimpses of Sydney Harbour. True to its roots, the building, which once was a hospital, still holds a few quirky surprises. “None of the rooms are in sequential order,” laughs Steve. “I’ve been here 13 years and I still get lost – but that’s part of the charm.”
Of course, the original pub hasn’t been left behind. They haven't just given the place new carpet and a fresh lick of paint – they've also lovingly restored its beloved 100-year-old red oak hamper bar that takes centre stage. It will be the perfect place to pull up a stool while the bartender pulls you a pint – and to enjoy live music from Wednesday through to Sunday.
Yes, The Fortune of War will be looking glowy when you next visit, but its heart and soul remain the same.
Find out more here.
Address: 137 George St, The Rocks NSW 2000
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