Turkish cuisine isn't just kebab shops. Instead it’s a delicious riot of flavours and textures stepped in a rich cultural history. And you can now experience this again at Izgara, the ocakbasi-style eatery which has a new home in Sydney’s CBD. Ocakbasi, which roughly translates to “grill” in Turkish, is where chefs cook everything on the grill in front of diners, giving the dishes a smoky flavour and char. And that's what you can expect here.
With Izgara, owners Efe Topuzlu and Ozgur Sefkatli – who are also behind Malika Bakehouse in Botany and Surry Hills – want to change the way Australians view Turkish cuisine and showcase the food they grew up eating in Istanbul, but with a modern spin.
The share-style menu – which is headed up by executive chef Topuzlu – features street food snacks like char-grilled Turkish peppers with pul biber (a spice) and smoked labneh; crisp and golden brown kibbeh with fried bulgur, lamb mince and garlic yoghurt; and haloumi drizzled with honey with walnuts, sun-dried tomatoes and currants.
Other bigger numbers include Yamba prawns with dill and herb oil; and char-grilled chicken kebabs with pickled cabbage, peppers and toum (a creamy garlic sauce). For dessert, there’s a riff on a traditional katmer, made up of a crisp pancake, pistachio and kaymak (similar to cream) – but we only have eyes for the baklava cheesecake. Turkish wines feature on the 250-strong wine list, as well as drops from around the world.
Originally found in Potts Point, the new-look Izgara is now located in the hustle and bustle on Clarence Street, with King Clarence and Palazzo Salato not far away. The 50-seater modern space features an open-kitchen grill, marble tables, splashes of red and wines lining the walls.