Latest Chicago restaurant reviews

Which Chicago restaurant should you dine at tonight? Read through our most recent Chicago restaurant reviews.

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  • West Loop
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

Finally, a West Loop hotspot that doesn’t break the bank. Chef Paul Virant’s thoughtful take on okonomiyaki is complexly flavored and wholly satisfying.

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  • Mediterranean
  • Logan Square
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

This pan-Mediterranean tapas spot in Logan Square aims to please with an array of dishes from land and sea—and it mostly succeeds.

  • Bakeries
  • Mckinley Park
  • price 1 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

Serving mouth-watering pastries and wholesome, scratch-made sandwiches, Butterdough is the neighborhood bakery that every community deserves.

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Time Out loves

  • American creative
  • Lincoln Park
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Boka
Boka
Restaurant review by Amy Cavanaugh While we were driving to dinner at Boka last weekend, my dinner date confessed: “All I want to eat for dinner is chicken.”  “You’re in luck,” I said. “Lee Wolen is a god of chicken.” When the Boka Group overhauled its ten-year old flagship restaurant earlier this winter, it made a few key changes. It revamped the space so it’s unrecognizable from its previous, staid incarnation—now, there’s a huge moss- and plant-covered wall (designed by former Time Out dining editor Heather Shouse’s Bottle and Branch horticulture company) with paintings of elegantly dressed-up animals; a bar area that feels like a boisterous brasserie, with dark leather, brick walls and dim lighting; and portraits of Bill Murray and Dave Grohl as generals. Bartender Ben Schiller had already departed for the Berkshire Room, and he was replaced with Tim Stanczykiewicz (GT Fish & Oyster, Balena), who handles the list of crowd-pleasing cocktails that don’t overpower the food, like a bee’s knees. And it brought in chicken god Lee Wolen, formerly chef de cuisine at the Lobby, to take over for GT Fish & Oyster’s Giueseppe Tentori. At the Lobby, Wolen’s star dish was a roasted chicken for two, a dish brought to Chicago from New York’s NoMad (the sister restaurant to Eleven Madison Park, where Wolen was a sous chef). It’s a different dish at Boka, but it’s still a knockout—lemon and thyme brioche is stuffed under the skin, then the breasts are roasted and the legs confited,...
  • South Asian
  • River North
  • price 3 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Located in the former Hub 51 space at the corner of Hubbard and Dearborn Streets in River North, Southeast Asian-inspired restaurant Crying Tiger is the first collaboration between Lettuce Entertain You and James Beard Award finalist and Lettuce alum chef Thai Dang. The vibe: Designed by David Collins Studio, who also designed Tre Dita, the space is characterized by vibrant hues, a rich amalgamation of textures and playful tableware that draws on the restaurant's Southeast Asian influences.  The food: The menu is inspired by the culinary traditions of Southeast Asia and the foods Dang and managing partner Amarit Dulyapaibul ate growing up. Standouts include the bird's eye chili and hamachi crudo, which is served on a green fish-shaped plate, the chargrilled sugarcane beef bo la lot wrapped in betel leaves and the clay pot lobster pad Thai. The drinks: Inventive cocktails like the milk punch of Thai tea with cognac, lemon and sugar cane complement an extensive selection of zero-proof beverages, which include spiced Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed coconut milk and salted mango limeade with preserved citrus served on shaved ice. Time Out tip: If you sit in the main dining room, you'll get a peek into the kitchen. If you prefer a more intimate experience, try to snag a seat in the bar area where you can choose from a high-top or a booth.
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  • Contemporary American
  • West Loop
  • price 4 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Oriole
Oriole
Chicago is home to a number of fine dining experiences, but few are able to match two Michelin-starred Oriole’s deft execution. The door in the back alley is relatively unmarked, as if the restaurant knows it’s worth seeking out. And it’s not wrong. The vibe: Upon arrival, guests are escorted into a freight elevator and given a drink before the door opens to reveal the dining room. Though there’s no telling what chef Noah Sandoval has in store each evening, you can look forward to a minimalist style of cooking that puts the spotlight squarely on the premium ingredients. The food: We can’t fault a single dish in the tasting menu, but past favorites have included the capellini, the caviar and the croissant. Bites like Hokkaido uni with tiger prawn, morita chili and maple, and Maine lobster with almond milk and geranium custard, black lime, fig leaf and tangerine lace are also fan favorites. The drinks: If you’re already in for a meal at Oriole, it would be a shame not to go the extra step and opt for the drink pairing. McManus is an expert in his field and makes sure that every dish is perfectly complemented, running the gamut from beer to wine to cocktails. Time Out tip: The first choice you’ll make when that napkin is safely in your lap is whether or not to take the drink pairing with the $325 tasting menu (you should—it’s perfect); the last choice you’ll make is if you want tea or coffee when it’s all done (you want that too—you’ll want to savor every moment you can at...
  • Contemporary American
  • Lincoln Park
  • price 4 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Alinea
Alinea
Although it’s long been one of the city’s undisputed best restaurants since its debut in 2005, Grant Achatz’s Alinea has conjured national scrutiny over the past year. In 2025, it lost its third Michelin star, and The New York Times published a review upon its 20th anniversary, noting “thought-provoking experiments and empty spectacle.” Despite all that, it still reigns as one of Chicago’s finest—and most impressive—restaurants. The vibe: Located in Lincoln Park, the choreographed service is immersive, exquisite and amazingly inventive. The space itself doesn’t offer much to fawn over, but that’s not what people come here for.  The food: Service here is a highly choreographed production. A range of dishes served among fire, ice and smoke steal the show. Previous favorites include Alinea’s (very tiny) version of a Chicago hot dog and the iconic helium balloon for dessert. Yes, you can taste a hint of latex, but it’s a rite of passage here.  The drinks: Beverage pairings range from $155 to $395. Non-alcoholic pairings are also available, and if you want to bring your own bottle, be prepared to pay the $125 corkage fee.  Time Out tip: Alinea still sells out most nights, so be sure to make a reservation well in advance. Your best bet is the set a reminder on the 15th of the month before you plan to go.
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  • American creative
  • River North
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
At LIA Tavern, the food is almost as captivating as the art on the walls. Chef and owner Justin Viacuinas reinvents the menu every few months when he brings in a new resident artist. During each residency, the artist's work is displayed throughout the space, and select dishes are inspired, and sometimes even replicate, the works themselves (previous highlights include the Warhol Martini, which is served in a Campbell's Soup Can, inspired by artist Joey Africa's vibrant work depicting the same can). The vibe: A modern, pop-art-inspired spot in River North accented by a rotating selection of vibrant artwork and Viacuinas' own massive painting, which is one of the city's largest, behind the bar. The food: Tavern-style pizzas, pastas and mains like roasted seabass and Cajun roasted chicken are equally approachable and elevated. The drinks: Many drawing inspiration from artworks, inventive cocktails include the Jackson Paint Can (mezcal, bourbon, orange liqueur, ginger, plum and citrus), which is served in an actual paint can, and a Malört Negroni. Time Out tip: The atmosphere here is fun, and during the warmer months, massive windows open for an indoor/outdoor vibe. This is a great spot for River North workers to come for happy hour or for a special occasion outing.
  • Latin American
  • Uptown
  • price 4 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Of all things, it was a fried corn silk garnish that made me well up during the fourth “Ravioli” course at Cariño, Uptown’s spectacular Latin American tasting menu restaurant from co-owner/executive chef Norman Fenton.  What’s maybe more noteworthy about this dish, in which al dente ravioli stuffed with puréed huitlacoche laze in truffle beurre blanc beneath a wave of corn foam, is that truffle isn’t rained on top like dollar bills. Rather it’s deployed subtly to enhance the corn smut’s woodsy, fermented qualities. Adorning the bowl’s edge with dehydrated corn and “popped” sorghum, the corn silk looked like little singed hairs. It tasted grassy and toasty, unlocking a childhood taste memory of eating ineptly shucked, grilled corn on the cob with butter. This stuck with me as I unearthed the grain’s diverse expressions one by one, then in a chorus—buttery, minerally, toasty, earthy like mushrooms, gently acidic, sweet as if sun dried. And I cried, just a little.  This was one of countless moments that solidified my sense that Cariño might be the best dining experience in Chicago right now, and a redemption of the tasting menu, which too often feels like it’s reaching for Michelin stars to the point of wanton tedium. Yes, you’ll find some fine-dining hallmarks: molecular gastronomy, occasional Wagyu and a truffle or two. Yes, there’s a hint of chef-bro one upmanship, namely a dessert in which a perfectly fried churro is doubly overpowered by foie gras mousse and a spiced...
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  • Italian
  • Lincoln Park
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Dimmi Dimmi
Dimmi Dimmi
What happens when a chef trained at Carbone opens an Italian restaurant in Lincoln Park? I went to the recently debuted Dimmi Dimmi to find out. This intimate spot on the corner of Armitage and Seminary Avenues took over the former Tarantino’s space. (Word is that a handful of former Tarantino’s employees are now on staff at Dimmi Dimmi.) There are very few reservations available over the next few weeks, but I managed to get one of the two high-tops at the window by walking in just before 5pm on a Tuesday. The bar was already filling up with singles and groups of no more than three. Light chatter and easygoing, nondescript music bounced around the space, which became increasingly louder as the evening went on.  Dimmi Dimmi, from Cornerstone Restaurant Group (Urbanbelly, Michael Jordan’s Steakhouse), is helmed by chef Matt Eckfeld, whose culinary career began here in Chicago. Eckfeld worked under Bill Kim at Urbanbelly and cut his teeth at high-end spots like Carbone and ZZ’s Club in New York. It’s no surprise that for this homecoming, he tackles Italian-American fare from a Chicago perspective. The menu is robust with all the expected classics: salads, pastas, pizzas, fish and meat dishes. Portions are not massive, but they’re enough for a family-style meal, which seems like the protocol here. Thankfully, the dining tables are spacious enough for this type of dining. I’m immediately impressed by the Caesar salad, which is crunchy, creamy and delightfully lemon-forward. The...
  • Steakhouse
  • River North
  • price 3 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Just like Hogsalt's other concepts, which include Au Cheval, Armitage Alehouse and Gilt Bar, Bavette's is ultra-popular. You may have to sacrifice your firstborn to secure a reservation, but it's totally worth the sweat. The vibe: A moody, dimly lit steakhouse next to Gilt Bar. The food: Whatever you're in the mood for, you're likely to find something enticing thanks to the menu's extensive selection of cuts ranging from a 6-ounce filet mignon and 20-ounce dry-aged bone-in ribeye to a 32-ounce Porterhouse.  The drinks: Bavette's offers four variations of an Old Fashioned, as well as pickle back shots, spirit-free sips, wines and eight different ice-cold martinis. Time Out tip: Reservations are available up to 21 days in advance at 9am. We recommend setting an alarm; otherwise, you may have better luck as a walk-in.
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  • Greek
  • Greektown
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Ithaki Estiatorio
Ithaki Estiatorio
We’ve seen plenty of modern Greek restaurants pop up across the city over the past few years, and most of them have garnered major buzz. On the surface, it seems like Chicago’s Greek scene is alive and well, right? Not quite. I’ll be the first to say it: Chicago doesn't really need new Greek restaurants right now. Greektown, on the other hand, certainly does. If you head to the West Loop neighborhood, you’ll see far too many vacant storefronts and the bones of what were once buzzing culinary hubs. Today, Chicago’s Greektown—one of the last of its kind in the country—is in dire need of a serious revival, and Ithako Estiatorio may be just what it needs. The opening of Ithaki, located inside the former Parthenon space, marks the return of founder Kosti Demos, whose family ran the beloved institution Costa’s Greek Dining and Bar (a favorite of Barack Obama, Vince Vaughn and Jennifer Aniston) before a fire destroyed the space in 2015, and it was later sold and replaced with a high-rise.  From the moment I walked into the new eatery on Halsted Street, it was clear that this was exactly what the neighborhood needed. Exposed brick walls, wooden beams and light-washed flooring frame the sprawling bar that wraps 15 feet around the front of the 180-seat restaurant. Delicate pink bougainvillea flowers and greenery throughout evoke the breeziness of the Mediterranean coast, and an open kitchen peels back the curtain on the wood-fired hearth and grill in the back. Greek transplant and...
  • Filipino
  • East Village
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Taking up residence in the former Winchester space, the Michelin-starred modern Filipino-American concept is from husband-and-wife team Tim Flores and Genie Kwon (Oriole).  The vibe: An intimate, ultra-popular spot in the Ukrainian Village that always has a long line during the daytime. The food: During the daytime, Kwon’s pastries and options like chicken adobo and a killer breakfast sandwich cause lines to form down the block. But at night, Kasama transforms into a 13-course fine dining experience full of bold and exciting flavors. The drinks: The daytime drinks like an ube latte are balanced and fresh, and for dinner, a $195 beverage pairing is well worth the splurge. Time Out tip: If you're coming during the day, order ahead online. This way, you'll skip the long line and walk right inside to pick up your order. When the weather permits, head to one of the nearby parks to eat outside. 

Most popular Chicago restaurants

  • American creative
  • Lincoln Park
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Boka
Boka
Restaurant review by Amy Cavanaugh While we were driving to dinner at Boka last weekend, my dinner date confessed: “All I want to eat for dinner is chicken.”  “You’re in luck,” I said. “Lee Wolen is a god of chicken.” When the Boka Group overhauled its ten-year old flagship restaurant earlier this winter, it made a few key changes. It revamped the space so it’s unrecognizable from its previous, staid incarnation—now, there’s a huge moss- and plant-covered wall (designed by former Time Out dining editor Heather Shouse’s Bottle and Branch horticulture company) with paintings of elegantly dressed-up animals; a bar area that feels like a boisterous brasserie, with dark leather, brick walls and dim lighting; and portraits of Bill Murray and Dave Grohl as generals. Bartender Ben Schiller had already departed for the Berkshire Room, and he was replaced with Tim Stanczykiewicz (GT Fish & Oyster, Balena), who handles the list of crowd-pleasing cocktails that don’t overpower the food, like a bee’s knees. And it brought in chicken god Lee Wolen, formerly chef de cuisine at the Lobby, to take over for GT Fish & Oyster’s Giueseppe Tentori. At the Lobby, Wolen’s star dish was a roasted chicken for two, a dish brought to Chicago from New York’s NoMad (the sister restaurant to Eleven Madison Park, where Wolen was a sous chef). It’s a different dish at Boka, but it’s still a knockout—lemon and thyme brioche is stuffed under the skin, then the breasts are roasted and the legs confited,...
  • West Loop
Curtis Duffy and Michael Muser (Grace) plunge back into Chicago's dining scene with Ever, a fine-dining beacon that offers a prix-fixe menu with eight to 10 courses focused on proteins from land and sea that are whipped into edible masterpieces. Almost as impressive as the fare is the dimly lit, seriously sexy dining room, designed by James Beard Award-winning architects LSA. Dubbed Duffy's "creative obsession," Ever promises an unparalleled dining experience that's refined, ambitious and intense—with a price tag to match.
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  • Italian
  • River North
  • price 2 of 4
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Zarella Pizzeria & Taverna
Zarella Pizzeria & Taverna
Boka Restaurant Group’s dimly lit new pizza joint, located inside the former GT Fish & Oyster space on the corner of Grand Avenue and Wells Street, attracts the cool kids of River North. The vibe: The lively spot is impeccably designed, with modern checkered tiled floors and walls, moody green hues and exposed brick. The crowd ranges from folks bellied up to the bar during a sporting event to couples out for date night, all of whom can appreciate the vibey playlist that includes flavors of everything from the `80s to current hits. The food: Chefs and partners Chris Pandel (Swift & Sons, Cira, Swift & Son’s Tavern) and Lee Wolen (Boka, Alla Vita, GG’s Chicken Shop) serve a simple—but packed—menu. Specialty pizzas, which can be made half-and-half and with one of three dips (Calabrian chili oil, hot honey and garlic ranch), are the main draw, but the salads and pastas are not to be overlooked. The ricotta gnocchi is rich, pillowy and practically melts in your mouth. The drinks: The drink menu is very bubbly, as is en vogue right now, with standouts like the crisp Cucumber Spritz (Vodka, Cocchi Americano, St. Germain, lemon and cucumber soda) and Soda Rossa (Matchbook Strawberry, lemon and cola), plus zero-proof sips like Green River soda and Sprecher root beer. Time Out tip: I would never let a loved one dine at Zarella without ordering the vanilla malt soft serve. Undoubtedly my favorite item on the entire menu, the soft serve ice cream is lightly sprinkled with cookie...
  • South Asian
  • River North
  • price 3 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Located in the former Hub 51 space at the corner of Hubbard and Dearborn Streets in River North, Southeast Asian-inspired restaurant Crying Tiger is the first collaboration between Lettuce Entertain You and James Beard Award finalist and Lettuce alum chef Thai Dang. The vibe: Designed by David Collins Studio, who also designed Tre Dita, the space is characterized by vibrant hues, a rich amalgamation of textures and playful tableware that draws on the restaurant's Southeast Asian influences.  The food: The menu is inspired by the culinary traditions of Southeast Asia and the foods Dang and managing partner Amarit Dulyapaibul ate growing up. Standouts include the bird's eye chili and hamachi crudo, which is served on a green fish-shaped plate, the chargrilled sugarcane beef bo la lot wrapped in betel leaves and the clay pot lobster pad Thai. The drinks: Inventive cocktails like the milk punch of Thai tea with cognac, lemon and sugar cane complement an extensive selection of zero-proof beverages, which include spiced Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed coconut milk and salted mango limeade with preserved citrus served on shaved ice. Time Out tip: If you sit in the main dining room, you'll get a peek into the kitchen. If you prefer a more intimate experience, try to snag a seat in the bar area where you can choose from a high-top or a booth.
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  • West Loop
We've rounded up the best chefs in the city to join us at Time Out Market Chicago, a culinary and cultural destination in the heart of Fulton Market. The 50,000-square-foot space houses more than 15 kitchens, three bars and one drop-dead gorgeous rooftop terrace—all spread across three floors. Our mission is simple: Bring Time Out Chicago to life with the help of our favorite chefs, the ones who wow us again and again. You'll find delicious dumplings from Qing Xiang Yuan, mouthwatering burgers at Gutenburg, fried chicken from Art Smith's Sporty Bird and extravagant milkshakes from JoJo's shakeBAR. If you're thirsty, sit down at one of the Market's bars to enjoy a menu of local beer, a robust wine list or a creative seasonal cocktail. And keep an eye out for events, concerts and artwork within the Market throughout the year—we're keeping our calendar packed with things to do.
  • Contemporary American
  • West Loop
  • price 4 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Oriole
Oriole
Chicago is home to a number of fine dining experiences, but few are able to match two Michelin-starred Oriole’s deft execution. The door in the back alley is relatively unmarked, as if the restaurant knows it’s worth seeking out. And it’s not wrong. The vibe: Upon arrival, guests are escorted into a freight elevator and given a drink before the door opens to reveal the dining room. Though there’s no telling what chef Noah Sandoval has in store each evening, you can look forward to a minimalist style of cooking that puts the spotlight squarely on the premium ingredients. The food: We can’t fault a single dish in the tasting menu, but past favorites have included the capellini, the caviar and the croissant. Bites like Hokkaido uni with tiger prawn, morita chili and maple, and Maine lobster with almond milk and geranium custard, black lime, fig leaf and tangerine lace are also fan favorites. The drinks: If you’re already in for a meal at Oriole, it would be a shame not to go the extra step and opt for the drink pairing. McManus is an expert in his field and makes sure that every dish is perfectly complemented, running the gamut from beer to wine to cocktails. Time Out tip: The first choice you’ll make when that napkin is safely in your lap is whether or not to take the drink pairing with the $325 tasting menu (you should—it’s perfect); the last choice you’ll make is if you want tea or coffee when it’s all done (you want that too—you’ll want to savor every moment you can at...
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  • American creative
  • River North
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
At LIA Tavern, the food is almost as captivating as the art on the walls. Chef and owner Justin Viacuinas reinvents the menu every few months when he brings in a new resident artist. During each residency, the artist's work is displayed throughout the space, and select dishes are inspired, and sometimes even replicate, the works themselves (previous highlights include the Warhol Martini, which is served in a Campbell's Soup Can, inspired by artist Joey Africa's vibrant work depicting the same can). The vibe: A modern, pop-art-inspired spot in River North accented by a rotating selection of vibrant artwork and Viacuinas' own massive painting, which is one of the city's largest, behind the bar. The food: Tavern-style pizzas, pastas and mains like roasted seabass and Cajun roasted chicken are equally approachable and elevated. The drinks: Many drawing inspiration from artworks, inventive cocktails include the Jackson Paint Can (mezcal, bourbon, orange liqueur, ginger, plum and citrus), which is served in an actual paint can, and a Malört Negroni. Time Out tip: The atmosphere here is fun, and during the warmer months, massive windows open for an indoor/outdoor vibe. This is a great spot for River North workers to come for happy hour or for a special occasion outing.
  • Contemporary American
  • Lincoln Park
  • price 4 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Alinea
Alinea
Although it’s long been one of the city’s undisputed best restaurants since its debut in 2005, Grant Achatz’s Alinea has conjured national scrutiny over the past year. In 2025, it lost its third Michelin star, and The New York Times published a review upon its 20th anniversary, noting “thought-provoking experiments and empty spectacle.” Despite all that, it still reigns as one of Chicago’s finest—and most impressive—restaurants. The vibe: Located in Lincoln Park, the choreographed service is immersive, exquisite and amazingly inventive. The space itself doesn’t offer much to fawn over, but that’s not what people come here for.  The food: Service here is a highly choreographed production. A range of dishes served among fire, ice and smoke steal the show. Previous favorites include Alinea’s (very tiny) version of a Chicago hot dog and the iconic helium balloon for dessert. Yes, you can taste a hint of latex, but it’s a rite of passage here.  The drinks: Beverage pairings range from $155 to $395. Non-alcoholic pairings are also available, and if you want to bring your own bottle, be prepared to pay the $125 corkage fee.  Time Out tip: Alinea still sells out most nights, so be sure to make a reservation well in advance. Your best bet is the set a reminder on the 15th of the month before you plan to go.
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  • Indian
  • River North
  • price 3 of 4
One of the most memorable meals of my life came at Gymkhana, a contemporary Indian restaurant in London. Arriving hungry and jet-lagged, my partner and I were floored by the elevated takes on familiar South Asian staples. For Brits, this type of experience is a common occurrence but here in Chicago, it’s nowhere near as prevalent. While a number of openings have broken new ground in recent years, Indienne is arguably the most ambitious to date. Its chef and co-owner, Sujan Sarkar, is no stranger to the local scene. He helped launch Rooh in the West Loop, which itself was a revelation at the time. At Indienne, Sarkar pushes the envelope even further. The restaurant debuted in September with two tasting menus—vegetarian and non-vegetarian—that reimagine classic Indian recipes through a progressive lens (an a la carte menu has since been added). In a surprise, both set options are priced at $90, a relative bargain considering the River North location. On a recent visit, my non-vegetarian experience began with canapes. A passion fruit pani puri packing a tart punch cleansed the palate for a mushroom éclair crowned with goat cheese and shaved truffle. The evening’s first course, a beautiful chaat starring a potato nest with dollops of chutneys atop yogurt and a raspberry spread, delivered a medley of textures and flavors. Each bite was creamy and crispy, as well as tangy and spicy. It was followed by an immaculate poached egg in a curry studded with peas, sweet corn and crispy...
  • Latin American
  • Uptown
  • price 4 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
Of all things, it was a fried corn silk garnish that made me well up during the fourth “Ravioli” course at Cariño, Uptown’s spectacular Latin American tasting menu restaurant from co-owner/executive chef Norman Fenton.  What’s maybe more noteworthy about this dish, in which al dente ravioli stuffed with puréed huitlacoche laze in truffle beurre blanc beneath a wave of corn foam, is that truffle isn’t rained on top like dollar bills. Rather it’s deployed subtly to enhance the corn smut’s woodsy, fermented qualities. Adorning the bowl’s edge with dehydrated corn and “popped” sorghum, the corn silk looked like little singed hairs. It tasted grassy and toasty, unlocking a childhood taste memory of eating ineptly shucked, grilled corn on the cob with butter. This stuck with me as I unearthed the grain’s diverse expressions one by one, then in a chorus—buttery, minerally, toasty, earthy like mushrooms, gently acidic, sweet as if sun dried. And I cried, just a little.  This was one of countless moments that solidified my sense that Cariño might be the best dining experience in Chicago right now, and a redemption of the tasting menu, which too often feels like it’s reaching for Michelin stars to the point of wanton tedium. Yes, you’ll find some fine-dining hallmarks: molecular gastronomy, occasional Wagyu and a truffle or two. Yes, there’s a hint of chef-bro one upmanship, namely a dessert in which a perfectly fried churro is doubly overpowered by foie gras mousse and a spiced...

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