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Fullcup Cafe
Photograph: Apple LeeFullcup Cafe

Best cafes in To Kwa Wan

Take your next cafe-hopping adventure to this up-and-coming neighbourhood

Tatum Ancheta
Edited by
Tatum Ancheta
Written by
Apple Lee
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Ever since the MTR Tuen Ma line opened, a number of Kowloon neighbourhoods have been quietly transforming as new local businesses began popping up along the railway line. One of such neighbourhoods is To Kwa Wan, an older part of the Kowloon City district that has welcomed a smattering of new coffee shops in the past few years. From a siphon coffee specialist to a glitzy retro cafe inspired by old Hong Kong, follow our guide to discover the hidden gems tucked away in this slow-paced suburb.

RECOMMENDED: Looking for places to eat where the interiors are just as appetising as the food? Check out our list of the most Instagrammable restaurants in Hong Kong.  

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  • Kowloon City

Founded in 2014, HeySoNuts is one of the longest-running cafes in this neighbourhood. The well-loved coffee shop and eatery has been steadily supplying To Kwa Wan locals with robust coffee and fusion eats long before the area became populated by newer openings. The secret to its success? HeySoNuts is operated by an all-star founding team made up of F&B veterans who had held different stints at five-star hotel restaurants: one of them was a chef, another made pastries, and the third was a bartender. Each co-founder is a master of his craft, so you can expect an all-around excellent drinking and dining experience here.

  • Restaurants
  • Cafés
  • To Kwa Wan

Set inside a laidback industrial space, you will want to leave your 9 to 5 stress behind for this one. In a city where space is rare, Out Of Office feels exceptionally roomy thanks to the high ceilings and abundance of natural light from the vast open front. For a lazy weekend brunch, order the classic shakshuka and baked Dutch pancake served in a sizzling skillet — plus the deep-fried ice cream if you’re feeling extra indulgent. The house blend here is a mix of Brazilian, Ethiopian, and Yunnan java; while the 'Orange is the new black' iced black coffee is infused with orange and passionfruit for a refreshing citrus take.

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  • Ma Tau Kok

A visit to Fullcup, or “breath” in Cantonese, will bring you back in time to Hong Kong in the 70s and 80s. The cafe has taken over the space previously occupied by Pak Kung Cafe, a local bing sutt founded in the 1950s, and kept parts of the original interior intact. A true retro-inspired oasis, this place is filled with eclectic knick-knacks from the past such as a red colonial postbox, stained glass windows, and antique toys from the owner’s own archive. Try the signature Japanese-style set combos featuring grilled Kinjo beef from Ishigaki; mochi waffles with chenpi (sun-dried tangerine peel) and mixed berries ice cream; and the special coffee drinks named after the different planets, such as the Venus Rose Latte and Mars Dirty Coffee.

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  • Hung Hom

Located on a tiny slope off the main thoroughfare, On The Hill offers a refreshing escape to slow down and sip your coffee. The boutique cafe is serious about its java, serving light and medium roasted coffee with fruity notes instead of the nutty commercial blends that often dominate chain coffee shops. The Deluxe Dirty coffee uses milk that has been condensed in-house to achieve a rich, sweet flavour. In a glowing testament to its rising popularity, On The Hill has quickly expanded to two other branches in North Point and Kowloon Bay in just two years’ time.

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  • Cafés
  • To Kwa Wan

Easily overlooked by keen Instagrammers, John Choy Cafe is a pared-down, hole-in-the-wall joint that offers one of the best siphon coffees in town. For the uninitiated, the syphon method has been around since the 1830s. This theatrical coffee-making process involves the applications of vapour pressure and gravity inside a vacuum system. John Choy Cafe offers over 30 types of coffee beans, ranging from Rwanda to Jamaican Blue Mountain and Kopi Iuwak (or civet coffee). If you're unsure of which variety to order, the owner, John, is always helpful in guiding guests through the different options. Besides the coffee, the grilled club sandwich is another excellent bet, packed with the usual suspects of scrambled egg, spam, ham, and stringy melted cheese.

  • Restaurants
  • Cafés
  • To Kwa Wan

There is something soul-soothing about the soft, unhurried nature of a bookshop cafe. Combining lattes and fiction, Urban Space is a literary hideout that nourishes both your mind and stomach. Browse hundreds of curated reads — including niche Korean titles — on the shelves, curl up with a favourite book at the back, and read the hours away. The bookish cafe serves light meals and caffeinated drinks to satisfy your appetite as you flip through page after page.

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