Chef Meedu Saad has Egyptian heritage, and the restaurant’s name comes from the Chevrolet that he sat as a child while being driven around Ismailia, the port city where he spent his summers. At Impala, Saad reads north African cuisines through the adopted grammar of French and Thai kitchens. He wouldn’t be the first to filter a cuisine through Gallic techniques, but the latter, after seven years spent running nearby Kiln’s kitchen, is where it gets interesting. Mastering it is about controlling intensity, integrating funk and heat without pushing it over the edge, balancing smoke and freshness, and using bitterness to counteract umami. It’s a colossal, ambitious menu best tackled with a group of greedy pals.
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