Angelini Osteria
Photograph: Patricia Kelly Yeo for Time Out
Photograph: Patricia Kelly Yeo for Time Out

The best Italian restaurants in L.A.

Head to the city’s best Italian joints for pizza, pasta and gelato that’s more than worth going out of your way for.

Patricia Kelly Yeo
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For a city supposedly full of gluten-sensitive diners, L.A. has far more than its fair share of Italian restaurants. Dizzying in scope, the city’s Italian dining scene offers pizza, pasta, antipasti, grilled meats and gelato in every subgenre of the cuisine under the sun, with more than a few hyper-regional spots, pasta or pizza specialists and Americanized red sauce joints to keep any carb lover happy.

Quick Picks: Best Italian restaurants in L.A.

  • Osteria Mozza – Nancy Silverton’s Michelin-starred restaurant, complete with mozzarella bar (Hancock Park)

  • Funke — The swanky 90210 crown jewel of Evan Funke’s pasta empire (Beverly Hills)

  • Bestia — A Downtown L.A. pioneer-turned-staple that’s beloved across the city for its bone marrow gnochetti, among other iconic dishes (Arts District)

  • Cento Pasta Bar — A minimalist, globally inspired pasta concept with a trendy but overhyped raw bar sibling next door (West Adams)

  • Gjelina — A market-driven Cal-Italian restaurant and must-try for any first-time visitor (Venice) 

While there’s excellent Italian food in just about every part of L.A., certain spots really take the cake—er, cannoli, as it were. Worth traveling out of your way for, these standout Italian restaurants in Los Angeles go above and beyond your average neighborhood trattoria when it comes to food quality, ambience and service. Buon appetito!

Sept 2025: This update adds Spina, Gjelina, Il Pastaio and Maccheroni Republic and includes new information on Funke, Cento Pasta Bar, Chi Spacca and Antico Nuovo. Cosa Buona and Stella have both unfortunately closed and thus have been removed from the list; after further scouting and consideration, Osteria La Buca, Jame Enoteca/Ospi, Mother Wolf and Forma have also been removed from this list. Time Out has also instituted a sitewide change in review policies. Food and drink venues included in most guides now have star ratings, with five stars corresponding to “amazing,” four to “great” and three to “good,” and we’ve also standardized how most listings are structured. For more on our new policies, feel free to check out How we review at Time Out.

The best Italian restaurants in L.A., ranked

  • Italian
  • Hancock Park
  • price 3 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
  • Sustainable

What is it? Delicate housemade pastas, antipasti and a literal mozzarella bar from local celebrity chef Nancy Silverton within her three-restaurant Mozzaplex in Hancock Park. 

Why we love it: Though buzzy new Italian spots open all the time in Los Angeles, none manage the same level of refinement and consistency that emanates from Osteria Mozza. From Silverton’s famous ravioli oozing ricotta cheese and bright yellow egg yolk to the fresh, creamy mozzarella paired with all manner of accoutrements, this upscale, Michelin-starred osteria still fires on all cylinders a decade and change after its initial debut. Other highlights include Nancy’s Caesar—a playful tartine riff on the classic L.A. salad—and the duck rillettes crostino. Depending on your mood, you could also head to next-door outposts Chi Spacca (for bubbling, cheese-stuffed focaccia and grilled meats) and Pizzeria Mozza (for pizza, obviously)—all three provide refined takes on a different facet of Italian cuisine, plus the freshly made seasonal flavors of the same delightful gelato that has made Silverton a mainstay in the gourmet freezer aisle.  

Time Out tip: Though it’s tempting to forgo vegetables here, order at least one antipasti next time you visit. On a menu of greatest hits, it’s the primary section that still changes seasonally—demonstrating the kitchen’s excellence even when Silverton isn’t necessarily working the stove.

Address: 6602 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 5:30–9pm, Fri 5:30–10pm, Sat 5–10pm, Sun 5–9pm

  • Steakhouse
  • Hancock Park
  • price 4 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
  • Sustainable

What is it? Nancy Silverton’s temple to flame-grilled meats, tomahawk pork chops, cured fennel salami and massive dry-aged steaks so big they almost feel like they’ll rock the table when they land. For those in search of a great steakhouse, this Italian one is worth the splurge.

Why we love it: Few restaurants can accomplish what Chi Spacca’s shoebox setting can. With one of the best charcuterie programs in the city and a stunning open kitchen, the talented team knows how to best work the cozy space for maximum meaty results. You may be spending over $200 on a steak (it’s enormous!), but don’t think about skipping the sides of roasted sustainable veggies—nor that bubbling focaccia di recco, which oozes stracchino cheese and comes with its own pizza stand. Throw in the generously portioned quartinos of wine, which easily turn into two servings, and Chi Spacca is one of the best places in town to wine and dine someone.

Time Out tip: For those who truly love pork, Chi Spacca hosts the Pig’s Head Dinner: An Ode to Pork—a $125 tasting menu that’s only available Mondays through Thursdays with two days’ notice. A minimum of four guests is required—but I recommend coming with six or more, or you won’t get through every course. The star of the show is a crispy, roasted pig’s head served with seasonal vegetables, sauces and flatbread, but you’ll also receive Chi Spacca’s signature like foccacia di recco (topped here with ham) and the sumptuous pork tomahawk dusted with fennel pollen.

Address: 6610 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 6–9:30pm, Fri–Sun 5:30–9:30pm

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  • Italian
  • Beverly Hills
  • price 4 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? The Beverly Hills crown jewel of Evan Funke’s city-spanning pasta empire, complete with a glass-encased pasta workshop, walk-in rooftop bar and priceless works of art on the walls.

Why we love it: While I’ve had great experiences at the chef’s other restaurants, it’s clear Funke and his pastry chef, Shannon Swindle, have switched their focus to this glitzy multi-level restaurant, where a brand-new section of hand-rolled pastas (“fatta a mano”) and an absolutely delicious sfincione palermitano ups the ante on the plush focaccia loaf first made famous at Felix in Venice. The ambience may not be as fun as Mother Wolf in Hollywood, but the quality of the food and service is far more consistent here at the moment. During my last meal at Funke, I loved the pesto trofie, carciofi alla giudea and Swindle’s seasonal meringata made with Harry’s Berries, a variation only offered in the summer months.

Time Out tip: Reservations, which are released seven days in advance at 9am on Resy, are practically required, so plan ahead. For a meal with less booking hassle, head to Felix or Mother Wolf instead for a pan-Italian menu that never fails to please, but be warned: I've found the latter somewhat inconsistent lately.

Address: 9388 S Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90210

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 5–9:45pm; Fri, Sat 5–10pm

  • Italian
  • Downtown Arts District
  • price 3 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? A refined, multi-regional tour through Italy via the mind of one of L.A.’s best chefs. 

Why we love it: It’s not the only chef-driven Italian restaurant in town, but it’s one of L.A.’s most famous(ly busy) restaurants for a reason. Chef and co-owner Ori Menashe’s menu highlights still manage to delight and impress, no matter how many times we’ve ordered them. Despite having opened in 2012 2012 (and the fact that owners Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis have opened two more restaurants), Bestia still requires a reservation on weekend evenings. The seasonal menu rotates slightly, but there are a couple of heavy hitters I always recommend, including the roasted bone marrow with spinach gnocchetti—one of the dishes that cemented my desire to write about food—and the chestnut and mushroom agnolotti. The latter consists of tiny mascarpone-stuffed pasta pockets topped with fried sage and fennel pollen; a combination these days that’s no longer novel, but still shockingly good. Paired with the industrial-modern digs and the sleek ambience, it’s a place where we’re likely to linger until the staff starts bussing our dessert plates and wine glasses.

Time Out tip: Order your own dessert. Pastry chef and co-owner Genevieve Gergis’s sweets are all memorable, even on repeat visits, and god help anyone who tries to get in between us and a forkful of chocolate budino tart.

Address: 2121 E 7th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90021

Opening hours: Daily 5–11pm

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  • Italian
  • Venice
  • price 3 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? A first-rate Italian trattoria at the far edge of Abbot Kinney—and the home of pasta maestro Evan Funke’s culinary comeback.

Why we love it: Forget being the best pasta in Venice—Felix is the original home of some of the best pasta on the West Coast. Though head chef Evan Funke now divides his time between Funke in Beverly Hills (our favorite of his restaurants) and Mother Wolf in Hollywood (a concept since expanded to Vegas and Miami, and which we don’t recommend at all unfortunately), this cozy Venice bungalow is where the Chef’s Table star made a triumphant return in 2017, a few years after closing his original restaurant, Bucato. Every night, you’ll see workers rolling, cutting and forming noodles behind a pane of glass—and while the focus at Felix remains the handmade pasta, you’ll also find a phenomenal sfincione focaccia, blistered crust pizzas and antipasti so good you’ll be tempted to make a whole meal out of them. Years in, and it’s still packed, so make a reservation before heading over, or brave your luck at the cozy bar stools near the entrance.

Time Out tip: When it’s available, order the spaghetti con bottarga. The salted, cured fish roe offers a uniquely Italian blend of savory flavors that’s out of this world.

Address: 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 5–9pm; Fri, Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–9pm

  • Pizza
  • Hancock Park
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? Unapologetically Californian pizzas from local celebrity chef Nancy Silverton within her larger three-restaurant Mozzaplex in Hancock Park. 

Why we love it: Despite the numerous pizza places that have opened in recent years, Pizzeria Mozza's pies have remained in a class of their own—and thanks to a supporting, ever-changing cast of bruschette, salads, unique pastas and desserts, it’s still one of the best Italian restaurants in town. Doughy, chewy and lightly charred, Silverton's flatbreads feature cheffy, farmers' market toppings like squash blossoms and fennel sausage. Newer menu additions include a chicken parm made with caciocavallo cheese, pasta alla vodka and cheesy gnocchi. Throw in over a half dozen compelling dolci—among them, the always-trusty butterscotch budino and the freshest versions of Silverton’s famous gelati and sorbetti—and you’re all but guaranteed a memorable fancy pizza dinner. In the summer, chase your pizza with sides of corn al forno and zucchini a scapece.

Time Out tip: To add texture and a sort of vegetable to your meal, order Nancy's chopped salad. Made with cherry tomatoes, iceberg lettuce and radicchio, this bowl of mostly cured meat and cheese may not be the most nutritious salad, but it is certainly quite delicious.

Address: 641 Highland Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 5–9pm, Fri 5–10pm, Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–9pm

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  • Italian
  • Koreatown
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? An upscale Italian restaurant in Koreatown run by Chad Colby, the former head chef of Chi Spacca. 

Why we love it: After selling takeout pizzas and cartons of gelato to survive the pandemic, Antico turned over a new leaf, hence the addition of “Nuovo.” These days, Colby’s fairly popular restaurant offers a seasonal, rustic-leaning menu centered around an unforgettably fluffy focaccia (accompanied by various spreads), housemade pastas, wood-fired mains and silky rotating flavors of gelato, which first became famous during lockdown. You’ll also find lightly dressed salads, beautifully roasted vegetables and traditionally prepared crudo. For mains, regulars swear by the pollo e crostone, or chicken roasted over focaccia, and I can’t find a single fault with Colby’s preparation of veal sweetbreads, which pairs the chicken nugget-like morsels with maitake mushroom and marsala jus. The pastas are lovely as well, though in truth the pasta and mains here have never wowed me quite as much as Funke, Chi Spacca and Osteria Mozza (while being just as expensive). For best results, order an item from every menu section and double up on gelato and, if you’re a focaccia superfan, an additional loaf of bread and spread. 

Time Out tip: If you ask nicely and the kitchen’s not too busy, Antico Nuovo will still sell you pints of gelato to take home.

Address: 4653 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90004

Opening hours: Daily 5:30–10pm

  • Italian
  • West Adams
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? A Middle Eastern-inspired pasta bar in West Adams with an impossibly trendy seafood sibling next door.

Why we love it: I’ve enjoyed Avner Lavi’s plates of beet spaghetti and uni squid ink pasta since the days he used to set up shop inside Downtown’s Mignon, and the Bestia alum hasn’t missed a beat since opening Cento’s brick-and-mortar form back in 2021. I’m less than enthused with Cento Raw Bar, the restaurant’s new, influencer-baiting younger sibling, but Cento’s streamlined menu of small plates, pastas, mains and desserts still comprises one of the most all-around delicious Italian dining options in town. The handful of global flourishes work unexpectedly well: a sprouted cauliflower with olives and plump golden raisins, a classic carbonara topped with chili crunch, a tres leches cake dripping in passion fruit curd. These days, the patio area is a total scene that spills into the buzzy Cento Raw Bar, but those in search of a more laidback environment can opt to dine indoors, where you’ll find a marble-topped chef’s counter and larger-than-life themed piece of pasta art.

Time Out tip: In no particular order, the sweet corn agnolotti, spicy pomodoro and beet spaghetti are my favorite pastas here. If you’re coming in a group of three or more, order them all.

Address: 4921 W Adams Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri, Sat 5–11pm; Sun 5–10pm

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  • American
  • Venice
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? The upscale, all-day Cal-Italian dining destination along Abbot Kinney that helped usher in the era of Venice’s full-blown gentrification.

Why we love it: Whether you love or hate it, Gjelina has quite a few disciples, and for good reason. Even in the dead of winter, the seasonally focused menu, eaten alongside a mix of tourists, locals and influencers, can’t help but bring in the sunshine. Founding chef Travis Lett has long since departed the kitchen—you can find him cooking at RVR, an izakaya located down the street—but current management has maintained the quality, consistency and seasonality of cooking that Gjelina is well-known for. On my most recent visit, the Weiser potatoes and orange-glazed rainbow carrots, served with yogurt and chermoula, were as delicious as ever. The ever-present anchovy pizza and orecchiette with beef cheek bolognese were equally great. Whether you’re stopping by in the morning or after dark, the restaurant delivers a great meal.

Time Out tip: My favorite seats in the house are on the back patio, particularly during weekend brunch.

Address: 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291

Opening hours: Daily 8am–10:30pm

  • Italian
  • Downtown Historic Core
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? A no-reservation casual staple in Downtown’s Historic Core that’s been making its own pasta since 2012.

Why we love it: When you imagine an ideal old-school Italian dining experience, Maccheroni Republic is probably what you’re jonesing for. For the last decade and change, the restaurant has quietly been serving some of the best pasta in Los Angeles. Started by Jean Louis DeMori and chef Antonio Tommasi, who also founded Beverly Grove’s Locanda Veneta (which they’ve since sold to new owners), Maccheroni Republic first drew rave reviews from the late food critic Jonathan Gold in 2014. Since then, the roaring hype has died down to a mere whisper, but the plates of maccheroni stellari (star-shaped extruded pasta in a spicy tomato sauce) and bianci e neri (black and white spaghetti with shrimp, mushroom and pancetta in a creamy bisque) are delicious as ever. Tommasi also offers unique regional favorites like tortini di gamberi—a deep-fried shrimp cake—and a classic homey minestrone. Plus, the secluded, string-lit outdoor patio space also feels a world away from the often sketchy streets of the Historic Core.

Time Out tip: The berry-studded olive oil cake and flourless chocolate cake are both standouts on the dessert menu.

Address: 332 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90013

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 11am–2pm, 5–9:30pm; Fri–Sun 11am–9:30pm

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  • Italian
  • Downtown Arts District
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? A longtime Italian favorite in the Arts District, beloved for its mandilli di seta, a silky handkerchief pasta bathed in a Ligurian-style almond-basil pesto.

Why we love it: The pasta might be the obvious standout at the Factory Kitchen, but so is everything else. Since 2013, owner Matteo Ferdinandi and chef Angelo Auriana have been churning out some of Downtown’s most consistently delicious Italian cuisine. In the last decade, the restaurant’s mandilli di seta has cemented itself as one of L.A.’s most iconic dishes, and the Ligurian-style focaccia, a.k.a. focaccia di Recco, is one of the best versions of bubbling, cheesy, crunchy flatbread in the city. (The absolute best, however, is still served at Chi Spacca.) Other menu standouts include the slow-roasted Italian-style porchetta and the prosciutto di Parma, sliced razor thin and served with sage-dusted savory doughnut puffs and creamy stracciatella cheese. More recently, the Factory Kitchen has expanded to Las Vegas, where you’ll find many of the kitchen’s greatest hits inside a restaurant known as Matteo’s Ristorante Italiano inside the Venetian. 

Time Out tip: Order the cannolis for dessert. Plump and stuffed to the brim with mascarpone cheese, the addition of pistachios and orange marmalade really sends the dish over the top.

Address: 1300 Factory Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90013

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 11:30am–2:30pm, 5–9:30pm; Fri 11:30am–2:30pm, 5–10:30pm; Sat 5–10:30pm; Sun 5–9pm

  • Italian
  • Beverly Hills
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? An old-school Italian restaurant beloved by celebrities like Justin Bieber (and plenty of Westside locals, too).

Why we love it: The first time I visited Il Pastaio, I was prepared to hate everything about it. But the efficient, thick-accented waiters and reasonable prices—yes, even in Beverly Hills—wore me down, and now I love it. The cooking here is simple yet of high quality, with plenty of options for large groups and those with dietary restrictions. During my visit, I ordered the paccheri “alla Justin Bieber,” which turned out to be a subtle pink vodka sauce, and the timballo di zucchine, a light vegetarian version of the dish featured in Stanley Tucci’s cult classic Big Night. The place bustles with locals of all ages, including families and couples on dates, and is open all day (and until midnight on weekends), so you can grab a relaxed midafternoon meal if the occasion calls for it. Still, if you’re coming on a weekend, I’d book a reservation or be prepared to wait—this well-oiled machine of a restaurant fills up fast and is pretty much busy at all hours.

Time Out tip: You can order the black truffle pastas with a $28 cheese wheel add-on, which adds a bit of tableside flair. Off taste alone, I wouldn’t recommend it, exactly, but it’s fun if you’re in the mood to splurge.

Address: 6400 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 11:30am–11pm; Fri, Sat 11:30am–midnight; Sun 11:30am–10pm

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  • Italian
  • Fairfax District
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? An all-day, Italian American mini-chain by namesake chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo.

Why we love it: While I don’t think Jon & Vinny’s is all that interesting of an Italian restaurant, I appreciate its ubiquity and consistency. These days, you can now find its excellent pancakes, mozzarella sticks and wood-fired pizzas in Beverly Grove, Brentwood, Slauson, Beverly Hills and Studio City. The Studio City location offers cocktails, while the Beverly Hills outpost offers a standing-room-only Helen's Wines countertop near the front for espresso-based drinks by day and pours of natural wine by night. Menu staples like the spicy vodka fusilli, chicken parm and Ham & Eazy (formerly known as the Ham & Yeezy) pizza are better than ever. My favorite savory dishes here include the garlic buffalo wings, Salad Days pizza (think chopped salad on a pie) and the straightforwardly delicious bucatini aglio e olio. For dessert, spring for the double chocolate cake or whatever else tickles your fancy—it’s all pretty great. 

Time Out tip: Evenings at Jon & Vinny’s all but require a reservation; you can usually squeeze in for a relaxed lunch or have the place to yourself during breakfast.

Address: Multiple, incl. Beverly Grove, Brentwood and Beverly Hills

Opening hours: Daily 8am–10pm

  • Italian
  • Santa Monica
  • price 1 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? A fast-casual pasta option in Santa Monica, Mid-Wilshire, Marina del Rey and Studio City from the same team behind Sugarfish and Hiho Cheeseburger.

Why we love it: Through a feat of global supply chain wizardry, Uovo serves plates of fresh pasta that were made in a commissary kitchen in Bologna, Italy and overnighted to L.A. Sure, they could make the pasta here, but why do that when they can serve fresh noodles crafted with the choicest eggs and flour in the epicenter of pasta? As with Sugarfish, both the service and menu are no-frills, with classic renditions of pastas from Bologna and Rome, all for under $20 a pop. Think a dairy-free ragú made using a recipe dating back to the 1950s, delicately folded tortellini floating in a simple broth, and a traditional spinach green lasagna thick with bechamel sauce and layers of beef, pork and cheese. Of course, you’ll find Roman classics like arrabiata, carbonara and cacio e pepe, plus newer, vegetarian-friendly options like fazzoletti piccanti and cheese ravioli. Plus, with vegetable sides at $9 apiece and a trio of tasting menus topping out at $38 per head, Uovo is one of the most affordable ways in Los Angeles to dine Italiano—and it’s definitely cheaper than a flight to Bologna. 

Time Out tip: Order the tiramisu for dessert, which draws inspiration from Rome’s iconic Felice a Testaccio.

Address: Multiple incl. Mid-Wilshire, Pasadena and Santa Monica

Opening hours: Daily 11:30am–10pm

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  • Californian
  • Santa Monica
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? An all-day California-inspired bakery and restaurant in Santa Monica that probably isn't the first place you might think of when you think “Italian cuisine.”

Why we love it: The wood-fired pizzas, housemade pastas and one seriously delicious garlic knot have made Milo + Olive one of the city’s best examples of Cal-Italian cuisine.  Lighter options like chopped salad and a citrus-y kale salad appeal to those dining in for lunch, but it’s dinner where this Santa Monica mainstay truly flexes its Italian cooking muscles. The pizza here uses a mix of Sperry organic and whole wheat flours, a lower-than-normal oven temperature and a two-day fermentation process to create a thick, chewy crust that’s one of the best pizzas in the city. Beyond that, the wickedly good bolognese and chicken milanese on the menu rival many of the more Italian-Italian options around town. The modern industrial ambience isn’t much to look at, but if you can look past the somewhat casual environs, the simple-sounding pastas here do more than merely please a crowd—they demand a standing ovation. For dessert, look to the gianduja budino, bourbon-laced tiramisu and an affogato made with Sweet Rose Creamery vanilla ice cream and your choice of Bonito Coffee Roasters espresso or Nekohama matcha.

Time Out tip: Milo + Olive has a marvelous pastry assortment during brunch hours, including a truly delicious weekend-only cast-iron cinnamon roll.

Address: 2723 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90403

Opening hours: Daily 7am–10pm

  • Italian
  • Old Pasadena
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? A neighborhood restaurant in Old Town Pasadena beloved across Northeast L.A. for seasonally inspired northern Italian cuisine. 

Why we love it: Nestled into a little side street, Union isn’t exactly the type of date night spot I recommend driving across town for, but the charming atmosphere and excellent cooking still translate into one seriously excellent Italian restaurant option for anyone living in Northeast L.A. Head chef Sandro Hernandez sources much of the produce from the farmers’ market, from roast potatoes made with Weiser Farms’ famous Magic Myrnas to Tamai Farms broccolini served with sundried tomato crema, pickled sungolds and a dusting of Parmesan. The handmade pastas—I especially like the squid ink lumache and classic spaghetti and meatballs—barely manage to outshine the likes of fra diavolo half chicken and herb-crusted lamb. For dessert, Hernandez keeps it simple with classics like olive oil cake, panna cotta and a hazelnut torte. The ingredients are local, the wine is flowing and the vibe is always relaxed and centered on the food—and how could it not be, with such delicious cuisine?

Time Out tip: Union also offers takeout-only pasta dinners designed to serve four. 

Address: 37 E Union Street, Pasadena, CA 91103.

Opening hours: Mon–Thu 5–9pm, Fri–Sun 4–9pm

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  • Italian
  • Atwater Village
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? A popular no-reservation pasta bar in Atwater Village run by Terra/Eataly and L’Antica da Michele alum Pablo Cruz.

Why we love it: From an open kitchen seemingly the size of a postage stamp, Cruz pulls off an ambitious, slightly inconsistent menu of appetizers, housemade pastas, grilled mains and desserts that beats out most of L.A.’s more established mid-tier Italian options. Wine lovers will appreciate the unique bottle list and handful of by-the-glass selections; for everyone else, there are $12 Aperol spritzes and a compelling booze-free house spicy lemonade. The pasta-focused menu includes a standout squid ink linguine, prepared multiple ways (seabass is the regular, but you might find lobster and crab on the specials menu), an umami-forward cacio e pepe and dutiful renditions of lamb ragú and pasta al scarpariello, a cheese-forward version of pomodoro. The night I visited, I enjoyed the Delmonico alla griglia, perfectly seared to medium-rare, but the oversalted rapini on the side killed my appetite. My squid ink linguine was also accompanied by overcooked lobster. What revived my intrigue by night’s end, however, was Spina’s creamy yet delicate tiramisu—a truly standout version of the ubiquitous espresso-laced dessert.

Time Out tip: Expect a wait if you’re hoping to dine at Spina on a weekend evening or with a party of three or four. (The place is so small I wouldn’t recommend any more than that.) Otherwise, it’s normally easy to snag a table for two or seats at the bar. 

Address: 3193 Glendale Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90039

Opening hours: Tue–Sun noon–3pm, 5–10pm

  • Italian
  • West Hollywood
  • price 2 of 4
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? A timeless red-sauce joint in West Hollywood that’s been beloved among locals, celebrities and local celebrities since 1964.

Why we love it: Few go to Dan Tana’s simply for the cooking. It’s not that the old-fashioned Italian American fare is bad: It’s more that the Old Hollywood atmosphere is wonderfully thick. The longtime servers can tell you what L.A. was like back when this red-sauce joint was cutting-edge, a time when they were much younger but Dan Tana’s looked the same. The menu is full of inside joke-like nods to regulars, including a few dearly departed celebrities and industry bigwigs, but focus in on the chicken (or alternatively, veal or eggplant) parm, various steak cuts and potatoes Beckerman—essentially cottage fries topped with crispy deep-fried onions. The spaghetti marinara that comes with every entrée is old-school Italian American at its most endearing (read: the noodles are rinsed off with water, and it’s much better as a side than a main event). One word of warning, however: The maître d’ does play favorites when it comes to reservations, which are only taken over the phone, and the wait for walk-ins can stretch to an hour or more, particularly on weekend evenings. Generally, however, even newbies can score a table here if they call three weeks in advance—which is what I recommend doing.

Time Out tip: For dessert, order the cappuccino ice cream and a slice of cheesecake. 

Address: 9071 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069

Opening hours: Daily 5–11pm

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  • Italian
  • Fairfax District
  • price 3 of 4
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

What is it? An unfussy longtime osteria on Beverly Boulevard beloved among neighborhood locals.

Why we love it: For over two decades, Angelini Osteria has been a go-to spot for countless Angelenos for a simply prepared Italian meal.  Every night, the no-frills space packs in diners devoted to the soulful, homestyle cooking of Emilia-Romagna–born chef Gino Angelini. Praises abound for branzino that’s salt-crusted and roasted whole and weekly specials like Saturday-only porchetta stuffed with garlic and herbs and finished in the wood-burning oven. Personally, I’ve found the cooking here to be a little inconsistent; on my most recent visit, the salad and tagliolini limone I ordered were slightly oversalted, though the salt-crusted branzino was cooked perfectly. In spite of the occasional off night, tons of Angelenos are still head over heels for Angelini Osteria—and for a charming, homestyle Italian meal in Central L.A., I can’t say I disagree. A handful of the pasta items even have devoted cult followings, including the signature lasagna verde “Nonna Elvira,” which pays tribute to the Old World with beef and veal ragú and handmade pasta layers topped with wilted spinach.

Time Out tip: Angelini Osteria also offers reasonably priced catering trays for Thanksgiving, Christmas and other major holidays. 

Address: 7313 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036

Opening hours: Daily 11:30am–9:30pm

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