Italian men playing cards outside a café might all feel a bit Sopranos if you're unfamiliar with this vibrant area, but there is nothing to fear in Carlton except for eating too much gelato. Catch a boundary-pushing performance at La Mama theatre, and D.O.C. will give you the authentic post-show pizza. In agreeable weather, a picnic in the Carlton Gardens is a treat. You can learn something new at Melbourne Museum, or just take a stroll on the leafy, terrace-lined Drummond and Rathdowne Streets. Little Italy, with a Melbourne twist, awaits you.